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2004

Textile Society of America Symposium Proceedings

Articles 61 - 69 of 69

Full-Text Articles in Art and Design

Tradition And Transformation In Chicahuaxtla Trique Textiles, Cecilia Gunzburger Jan 2004

Tradition And Transformation In Chicahuaxtla Trique Textiles, Cecilia Gunzburger

Textile Society of America Symposium Proceedings

San Andres Chicahuaxtla is a Trique-speaking village in the mountains of the southern Mexican state of Oaxaca. This paper explores changes in Chicahuaxtla Trique textiles and costume over the previous half century as women incorporated newly available commercial products into their indigenous weaving tradition.

Contact with the outside world and access to manufactured goods gradually accelerated, yet hand-woven clothing remains a strong component of women’s cultural identity. Although trade in textiles between Mesoamerican villages is certainly nothing new, the 20th century brought new materials like factory-spun and – dyed cotton and acrylic yarn in a wide range of colors ...


It's In The Bag: Transformation In Guatemala, Kathy Rousso Jan 2004

It's In The Bag: Transformation In Guatemala, Kathy Rousso

Textile Society of America Symposium Proceedings

Morrales or net bags are an important man’s accessory in rural Guatemala, and many are made from maguey fibers using the ancient techniques of thigh spinning, and simple looping. Adaptations to these styles probably began when neighboring Mayan and Xinca tribes exchanged ideas as they came in contact with each other in times of trade and conflict. With Spain’s colonization, new tools such as spinning wheels, knitting needles, and looms, along with their uses, were incorporated into bag construction. The sailors who transported these early explorers likely introduced the strap methods of braiding, and knotwork, and with the ...


Sa’Dan Toraja Supplementary Weft Weaving An Ethnographic Interpretation Of Acculturation And Assimilation Of Loom Technology And Weaving Techniques, Maria Christou Jan 2004

Sa’Dan Toraja Supplementary Weft Weaving An Ethnographic Interpretation Of Acculturation And Assimilation Of Loom Technology And Weaving Techniques, Maria Christou

Textile Society of America Symposium Proceedings

The Sa'dan Toraja loom is a variant of the body-tension loom with a continuous warp. A comparison is made between the Sa'dan loom to other looms found on the island of Sulawesi, Indonesia, based on ethnographic fieldwork I conducted there from June 1993 to June 1994. This research is done in order to situate the Sa'dan loom in a historical time frame. I suggest that loom type correlates with the materials and decorative techniques, and to a certain, but lesser, extent with design. This assemblage of material data offers insight into the cultural history of South Sulawesi ...


Tapestry Technology 1400-2004, Tina Kane Jan 2004

Tapestry Technology 1400-2004, Tina Kane

Textile Society of America Symposium Proceedings

For the past 15 years my practice as a textile conservator and artist has stimulated an ongoing dialog between myself as a textile maker and the weavers of ancient textiles. A human hair caught in the web of a cloth, a weaver’s choice of interlacement patterns and the deliberate manipulation of woven motifs all mark the presence of “the weaver.” Who were these people, why do their creations make us marvel and how can our experience as contemporary weavers add to the scholarship of ancient textiles?

Because of the structural simplicity of tapestry weave, analyzing an intricate design from ...


The Distribution Of Cultural Identity A Canadian Case Study, Jennifer E. Salahub Jan 2004

The Distribution Of Cultural Identity A Canadian Case Study, Jennifer E. Salahub

Textile Society of America Symposium Proceedings

A banner like this, hung in the central passage of a training institute … cannot fail to impress itself on the character of some, giving their tastes a bent in those directions which you would desire to push them into.

Albert Henry George, 4th Earl Grey (b.1851-d.1917). Letter, National Archives of Canada, Dated 13 March 1906.

This illustrated presentation introduces a series of early twentieth-century embroidered and appliquéd banners that were the inspiration of Lord Grey, Governor General of Canada between 1904–11. The medium – needlework – was specifically chosen because of its historic connotations. By literally fabricating material memories ...


Author Biographies Jan 2004

Author Biographies

Textile Society of America Symposium Proceedings

Author Biographies A-W

Ping-Ann Addo

Filiz Adıgüzel

Jeni Allenby

Philis Alvic...

Wendy Weiss

Lauren Whitley

Michelle Willard


Keynote Address—Summary Notes, Jack Lenor Larsen Jan 2004

Keynote Address—Summary Notes, Jack Lenor Larsen

Textile Society of America Symposium Proceedings

San Francisco Bay as the Fountainhead and Wellspring

Jack Lenor Larsen led off the 9th Biennial Symposium of the Textile Society of America in Oakland, California, with a plenary session directed to TSA members and conference participants. He congratulated us, even while proposing a larger and more inclusive vision of our field, and exhorting us to a more comprehensive approach to fiber. His plenary remarks were spoken extemporaneously from notes and not recorded. We recognize that their inestimable value deserves to be shared more broadly; Jack has kindly provided us with his rough notes for this keynote address. The ...


Abstracts Of Papers Jan 2004

Abstracts Of Papers

Textile Society of America Symposium Proceedings

We Pieced Together Cloth, We Pieced Together Culture: Reflections on Tongan Women’s Textile-making in Oakland

Symbolic Defiance: Questions of Nationalism and Tradition in Middle Eastern Textiles

Churchill Weavers: 80 Years of American Handweaving

West Anatolian Carpet Designs: The Effect of Carpet Trade Between Ottoman Empire and Great Britain

California and the Fiber Art Revolution

Shifting Sands—Costume in Rajasthan

Pattern Power: Textiles and the Transmission of Knowledge

The Ubiquitous T-Shirt and Fashionable “Islamic Dress”: Cultural Authentication in Turkey


Editor's Introduction Notes On Editing Acknowledgments Jan 2004

Editor's Introduction Notes On Editing Acknowledgments

Textile Society of America Symposium Proceedings

Introduction

The Textile Society of America’s 9th Biennial Symposium took place October 7–9, 2004, at the Oakland Marriott City Center Hotel in Oakland, California. The theme as reflected in the title, appropriation • acculturation • transformation, offered a stimulating approach to the study of historic and contemporary textiles from many cultures and diverse perspectives. Of eighty presentations in twenty-four sessions, seventy are represented in this CD-ROM. Sixty-seven authors have contributed sixty-two papers. Together with more than seventy abstracts, they reflect in text and image the substance and intellectual vibrancy that characterized this symposium.

Geographically, the San Francisco Bay Area is ...