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2014

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Textile Society Of America Newsletter 26:3 — Fall 2014, Textile Society Of America Oct 2014

Textile Society Of America Newsletter 26:3 — Fall 2014, Textile Society Of America

Textile Society of America Newsletters

Letter from the President
Exciting Collaborations Lead to New Membership Benefits Valued at Over $110
Save the Date: Announcing Textiles Close Up 2015
Introductions & Welcome: New Members of the 2014–2016 Board of Directors
Symposium Highlights: Individuals' Reflections on the 14th Biennial Symposium
2013 Recipient: R. L. Shep Ethnic Textile Book Award
Founding Presidents Awardees at the 14th Biennial Symposium
Andrea Donnelly Honored with 12th Brandford/Elliott Award at Textile Symposium
Post-Symposium Tour Review: Kay Sekimachi Retrospective & Asian Textiles at the Mingei, Balboa Park, San Diego
TSA's Inaugural Juried Exhibition, Hosted by the Craft & Folk Art Museum in Los ...


Laurus: After Dark. Fall 2014, Daley Eldorado, Sarah Benal, Emily Burns, Kirsten Clawson, Eric Holt, Sam Greenfield, Sean Stewart, Lori Nevole, Kayla Punt, Alexa Horn, Nicole Mosby, Abie Rohde, Michael Page, Dizzy Roberson, Samuel Lee, Emily Tran, Leonardo Casabella, Scott Sampson, Katie Cooley, Alec Kaus, Hannah Eads, Madeline Cass, Nicholas Wilkinson, Haley Heesacker, Mina Holmes, Evan Pillle Oct 2014

Laurus: After Dark. Fall 2014, Daley Eldorado, Sarah Benal, Emily Burns, Kirsten Clawson, Eric Holt, Sam Greenfield, Sean Stewart, Lori Nevole, Kayla Punt, Alexa Horn, Nicole Mosby, Abie Rohde, Michael Page, Dizzy Roberson, Samuel Lee, Emily Tran, Leonardo Casabella, Scott Sampson, Katie Cooley, Alec Kaus, Hannah Eads, Madeline Cass, Nicholas Wilkinson, Haley Heesacker, Mina Holmes, Evan Pillle

Laurus: The Undergraduate Literature Journal of the University of Nebraska at Lincoln

Contents

Dizzy Roberson
“The Devil Is Just Left of the Spleen”...6

Samuel Lee
“Sonnet - To Punk”.....9
“Sonnet, Again”......26
“Sea of Trees”......42

Emily Tran
“Bloody Eyeballs”.....10

Leonardo Casabella
“The Broken Frame”.....11

Scott Sampson
“Packed”.......18

Katie Cooley
“Shades”.......19

Alec Kaus
“Warrant”......20
“Waiting”......25
“When the Night”.....44

Hannah Eads
“Blessed Be!”......21

Madeline Cass
“Scrimshaw”......23

Nicholas Wilkinson
“The Hunt”......27

Haley Heesacker
“The Lonely Pink Flower”.....35

Mina Holmes
“Sugar and Spice”.....36

Evan Pille
“To the Desk of Edgar L. Brandbum”...45

Contributor Bios......59

Editor Bios......62


Textiles And The Virtual World Broadening Audience Engagement At The Textile Museum Of Canada, Roxane Shaughnessy Sep 2014

Textiles And The Virtual World Broadening Audience Engagement At The Textile Museum Of Canada, Roxane Shaughnessy

Textile Society of America Symposium Proceedings

Museums with textile collections face challenges in providing meaningful public access to these cultural objects. Textiles can only be displayed for limited periods to minimize damage from light and exposure, and the fragility of most textiles requires careful handling to prevent deterioration. Textile exhibitions and special visits to storage areas provide opportunities for public engagement with textiles. However until recently, the close study of materials and techniques required direct access to the object.

In recent years, the advent of the World Wide Web, digitization, and other technologies have afforded global access to museum textile collections, and enabled those interested to ...


Substitute Innovation: Rethinking The Failure Of Mid-Twentieth Century Regenerated Protein Fibres And Their Legacy, Mary M. Brooks Sep 2014

Substitute Innovation: Rethinking The Failure Of Mid-Twentieth Century Regenerated Protein Fibres And Their Legacy, Mary M. Brooks

Textile Society of America Symposium Proceedings

Politicians and planners in Europe and America in the 1930s and 1940s were increasingly anxious about the availability of wool for military requirements and actively encouraged research into substitute fibres. Innovation energised by the needs of war informed the development of processes to transform proteins normally used for food (milk, soya, corn, and fish) or perceived as waste (egg whites, chicken feathers and slaughter-house products) into fibres. This paper explores both innovative technology and conceptual models of innovation as applied to substitute fibres which were intended to result in both technical and cultural shifts. Substitute innovation was used to modify ...


Adinkra And Kente Cloth In History, Law, And Life, Boatema Boateng Sep 2014

Adinkra And Kente Cloth In History, Law, And Life, Boatema Boateng

Textile Society of America Symposium Proceedings

Adinkra and kente cloth have changed significantly in the course of their history first as markers of Asante royal power and then of Ghanaian cultural distinction. Once handmade and reserved for the exclusive use of the Asante ruler, cheap mass-produced reproductions now proliferate in Ghanaian markets. In attempting to use intellectual property law to regulate their appropriation, the Ghanaian state has set the conditions for further changes in these fabrics, their designs, and their sources of authority. This paper examines the implications of changing political and regulatory contexts for the past present and future meanings of adinkra and kente cloth ...


Deliberate Entanglements: The Impact Of A Visionary Exhibition, Emily Zaiden Sep 2014

Deliberate Entanglements: The Impact Of A Visionary Exhibition, Emily Zaiden

Textile Society of America Symposium Proceedings

The medium and metaphors of fiber have a history imbued with gender-based associations, predominantly tied to femininity. Although men have historically participated in the creation of textiles throughout the course of time, the role of women often overshadows them in proliferation and ubiquity of activity. In the 1960s, fiber as an expressive material became intertwined with and politicized by the feminist movement and fiber was frequently employed by artists to address socio-cultural hierarchies. The Men’s Movement also emerged in that era, having its own potential impact on the field of fiber. The layers of historic and cultural hegemony that ...


The Refining Of A Domestic Art: Surayia Rahman, Niaz Zaman, Cathy Stevulak Sep 2014

The Refining Of A Domestic Art: Surayia Rahman, Niaz Zaman, Cathy Stevulak

Textile Society of America Symposium Proceedings

Kantha or, as it is increasingly referred to now, nakshi kantha, is an important women’s domestic art of Bengal. Layers of old garments such as saris, lungis and dhotis are stitched into objects of functional, ritual, or ceremonial use. In Bangladesh, kantha was revived as a commercial activity to provide work for women left destitute after the 1971 war. In the mid-1980’s, it was further developed as a public art. One of the key players in this revival was Surayia Rahman, who refined a domestic art, for private use, into fine art, for public display. Initially an artist ...


Virtually Crafting Communities: An Exploration Of Fiber And Textile Crafting Online Communities, Theresa M. Winge, Marybeth C. Stalp Sep 2014

Virtually Crafting Communities: An Exploration Of Fiber And Textile Crafting Online Communities, Theresa M. Winge, Marybeth C. Stalp

Textile Society of America Symposium Proceedings

Ravelry.com was founded in 2007 and as of March 2013 it had more than three million members for its social networking website. The Ravelry.com motto is: Ravelry is “a place for knitters, crocheters, designers, spinners, and dyers to keep track of their yarn, tools, and pattern information, and communicate with others for ideas and inspiration” (Forbes, Ravelry.com/about, Aug 22, 2013). Members share images of their handcrafts and discuss their recent projects. The site serves as more than a social media platform for handcrafters; however, it also provides members with a means of commerce, such as selling ...


Touch And Technology: An Individual Perspective, Vibeke Vestby Sep 2014

Touch And Technology: An Individual Perspective, Vibeke Vestby

Textile Society of America Symposium Proceedings

The development of the Single Thread Control Loom (TC-1) resulted from my fascination with ancient Chinese silk fabrics featuring detailed motifs of flowers, dragons and clouds. I wanted to be able to weave designs of similar complexity and remember to my disappointment that my introduction to weaving provided no connection to the silks I admired. I realized then that what I wanted to explore would be very difficult and time consuming to achieve on a shaft loom. But I had no idea how this interest would affect the trajectory of my life and career goals.

In 1984 as a young ...


Chitenje: The Production And Use Of Printed Cotton Cloth In Malawi, Sarah Worden Sep 2014

Chitenje: The Production And Use Of Printed Cotton Cloth In Malawi, Sarah Worden

Textile Society of America Symposium Proceedings

A number of recent exhibitions and publications have discussed the pan-African production and use of factory print cotton cloth, for example, ‘Social Fabric. African Textiles Today’ at the British Museum (14 February -21 April 2013). However, there has been no substantive published research on the subject of the production and use of this cloth in Malawi. Historically cotton has been an important crop in Malawi, whilst imported cotton cloth a hugely significant trade commodity. The paper will contextualise the current trend in factory made cloth (chitenje pl. zitenje) within the longer run history of cotton in the country and will ...


Bringing Fiber To Art And Art To Fiber, Jo Stealey Sep 2014

Bringing Fiber To Art And Art To Fiber, Jo Stealey

Textile Society of America Symposium Proceedings

Contemporary basketry has evolved over the last 60 years to be integrated into the art world at large. The panel will address what is new and innovative in this movement, and ask how is the work of this generation influenced by the previous generation of basketmakers? This panelists will illustrate how the movement continues to be redefined due to the influences of Joanne Segal Brandford and Lillian Elliott by looking at innovative artists who have contributed fresh patterns, channels and momentum to this innovative medium. Furthermore, the panel will examine how this confluence influences current emerging artists.

Areas of discussion ...


Embroidery As Inscription In The Life Of A Calabrian Immigrant Woman, Joan L. Saverino Sep 2014

Embroidery As Inscription In The Life Of A Calabrian Immigrant Woman, Joan L. Saverino

Textile Society of America Symposium Proceedings

This paper explores the intersection of needlework, personal narrative, gender and artistic creativity in one immigrant woman’s extraordinary life in two out of the way places (Calabria and Appalachia) over the course of nearly a century. Anna Guarascio Peluso excelled in embroidered whitewear, the mark of a cultured woman in nineteenth century Calabria. As an immigrant to West Virginia, the art in its traditional form was incompatible with the new culture and life Anna entered. At the end of Anna’s life, narrative and needlework merged to produce one last project. A revival of the embroidery served as a ...


George Washington Carver: Textile Artist, Eulanda A. Sanders, Chanmi Hwang Sep 2014

George Washington Carver: Textile Artist, Eulanda A. Sanders, Chanmi Hwang

Textile Society of America Symposium Proceedings

Born a slave, George Washington Carver (1864-1943) is one of the most historically prominent African American scientists. Carver was a pioneer as an agriculturalist and botanist by introducing methods of soil conservation for farmers, inventing hundreds of by-products from peanuts, pecans, sweet potatoes, and soybeans, and practicing “zero waste” sustainability. Scholars have recognized Carver’s talent as a painter and his ability to develop paints and dyes from various natural sources; however, there is very little scholarship documenting his work as a textile artist. Holdings at the G.W. Carver National Monument and Tuskegee Institute National Historic indicate that Carver ...


The Aegean Wool Economies Of The Bronze Age, Marie-Louise Nosch Sep 2014

The Aegean Wool Economies Of The Bronze Age, Marie-Louise Nosch

Textile Society of America Symposium Proceedings

This paper will explore the importance of wool in the emergence of complex societies during the Bronze Age in the Aegean. The 2nd millennium BC Aegean witnesses the emergence of a highly particular system of wool economy, beginning with the Minoan and followed by the Mycenaean centralized palace economies with strict administration of flocks, herders, wool, and textile production by thousands of women and children. This system monitors annual production targets and surplus production, and production strategies ensuring that the palaces’ needs are met. Textile production is the largest sector of the palace economy and employs the highest number of ...


Navajo (Diné) Weavers And Globalization: Critiquing The Silences, Kathy A. M'Closkey Sep 2014

Navajo (Diné) Weavers And Globalization: Critiquing The Silences, Kathy A. M'Closkey

Textile Society of America Symposium Proceedings

Native Americans, along with the scenery, are primary attractions in New Mexico and Arizona, and tourism brings billions into the region annually. Since the Indian arts and crafts ‘boom’ in the 1970s, unemployment has increased dramatically on reservations where artisanal production provides essential income. Isleta carver Andy Abeita acknowledges that the world renowned recognition of southwest arts and crafts does not reflect what goes on within impoverished makers’ homes. Currently 80% of the 1.5 billion dollar sales annually of “Indian” products is fabricated and imported into the US. ‘Knock-offs’ flood the shelves of hundreds of retailers, ‘trading posts,’ casino ...


Finding Binding Points: Design Development And The Digital World, Wendy Weiss Sep 2014

Finding Binding Points: Design Development And The Digital World, Wendy Weiss

Textile Society of America Symposium Proceedings

A master weaver at work is in a state of exchange with the material, the design, the craft and the process. The artisan at work is so fully engaged words and photographs alone cannot capture the action. Digital video can bridge that gap. Complex weave patterns published centuries ago are housed in rare book and manuscript libraries. Digital archives make them widely available. Jute fiber thrives in Bangladesh and India and factories in Patterson, NJ processed it until the 1950’s when the synthetic fiber market began to dominate the traditional jute trade. On-line research allows rapid access to historical ...


Chronology, Mythology, Invention: John Bevan Ford’S Maori Cloak Images, Suzanne P. Macaulay Sep 2014

Chronology, Mythology, Invention: John Bevan Ford’S Maori Cloak Images, Suzanne P. Macaulay

Textile Society of America Symposium Proceedings

The Symposium’s theme linking past actions to future creations implies a linear and sequential correspondence between them - one precedes the other yet offers possibilities to be realized at some future point in time. A different model for time sequencing where past, present and future are conceptually more integrated is the New Zealand Maori view of ancestral presence manifest in the past, but also present in the future. To paraphrase a Maori proverb, “the ancestors stand behind a person, but also stand ahead.” Thus, within this non-European concept of time, the ancestors are simultaneously regarded as both progenitors and future ...


Flax Fibre: Innovation And Change In The Early Neolithic A Technological And Material Perspective, Susanna Harris Sep 2014

Flax Fibre: Innovation And Change In The Early Neolithic A Technological And Material Perspective, Susanna Harris

Textile Society of America Symposium Proceedings

Flax (Linum sp.) was one of the first domestic plants in Neolithic Europe, providing a potential cultivable source of fibres for the first farmers. As the plant provides both oil and fibre, it is a matter of enquiry as to whether the plant was first domesticated for its seeds or stem. Through examining new data collected by the EUROEVOL Project, UCL it is possible to chart the earliest archaeobotanical evidence for flax species in Europe. This provides the basis on which to consider the origin of fibres from the flax plant (linen) as a basis for change and innovation in ...


Traditional Textile Design For Social Innovation Toward Sustainability In Japan, Yuko Fukatsu Sep 2014

Traditional Textile Design For Social Innovation Toward Sustainability In Japan, Yuko Fukatsu

Textile Society of America Symposium Proceedings

Japanese local textiles are too traditional to fit in our time, however they are all earth-friendly materials those of which are significant for the sustainable society in our future. In this paper, possibilities of re-designing traditional textiles made of natural fiber are explored with local weavers at Okinawa and Nagano in Japan. Talking with craftsmen from local communities I realized that not only current issues of textile techniques and products but also those of local communities and environment should be discussed and solved at the same time.

Also, I realized that activities and creativities of young generations are necessary to ...


The Fabric For A City: Development Of Textile Materials During Thurbanization Period In Mediterranean Europe, Margarita Gleba Sep 2014

The Fabric For A City: Development Of Textile Materials During Thurbanization Period In Mediterranean Europe, Margarita Gleba

Textile Society of America Symposium Proceedings

Ancient literary sources indicate that, by the beginning of the Common Era, different textile types and qualities were available to Roman consumers and many of the best fibres were produced in Italy, from where they spread throughout the Roman Empire in the form of sheep, raw materials or finished textiles. The variety observed during the Roman times reflects a long period of evolution, based on selective breeding and cultivation, as well as development of new and more effective processing, spinning and weaving technologies. Recent investigations demonstrate that major changes in fibre development and processing took place in the Mediterranean Europe ...


Wikispaces: Technology, Textiles, And Public Engagement, Blaire O. Gagnon Sep 2014

Wikispaces: Technology, Textiles, And Public Engagement, Blaire O. Gagnon

Textile Society of America Symposium Proceedings

In a world where technology is constantly changing and cultural institutions such as universities and museums are being asked to do more with less, the question becomes how to improve efficiencies but also expand access. University based museums and collections, have, perhaps, an even greater challenge because their faculty and staff may focus on teaching, service, and publication in ways that do not directly support or integrate their collections or their collection/object related projects are turned primarily inward, through such projects as student papers. On the other hand, they have the opportunity to engage students in object-based research that ...


Conversations Between A Foreign Designer And Traditional Textile Artisans In India: Design Collaborations From The Artisan’S Perspective, Deborah Emmett Sep 2014

Conversations Between A Foreign Designer And Traditional Textile Artisans In India: Design Collaborations From The Artisan’S Perspective, Deborah Emmett

Textile Society of America Symposium Proceedings

Contemporary textile designers are part of a cultural shift that has brought into the mainstream a sense of ecological and social responsibility. Some are challenging the way the textile industry is conducted, questioning the existing business models. International media coverage has exposed the poor and unsafe working conditions of many of the people employed in this industry, cruelly demonstrated by the collapse in April 2013 of Rana Plaza, a garment manufacturing complex in Dhaka, Bangladesh, where 1127 workers died. This awareness has developed a social consciousness in many design communities, and as a result the development of ethical design practices ...


Writing Textile, Making Text: Cloth And Stitch As Agency For Disorderly Text, Catherine Dormor Sep 2014

Writing Textile, Making Text: Cloth And Stitch As Agency For Disorderly Text, Catherine Dormor

Textile Society of America Symposium Proceedings

This paper focuses upon means and ways in which knowledge gained through textile practice can be expressed using language and imagery drawn from within that practice itself. In this it draws upon Žcriture feminine to develop a matrix of knowledge upon and within which text and textile intertwine. Here cloth and stitch are considered as co-agents for a disorderly text that dissolves boundaries between theoretical and practice-based concerns through a process that Bracha Ettinger refers to as ‘borderswerving’ (Ettinger 2006). In this paper such disorderly text or working in and through body, cloth and stitch, will be addressed through three ...


Stitches Of War: Women’S Commentaries On Conflict In Latin America, Deborah A. Deacon Sep 2014

Stitches Of War: Women’S Commentaries On Conflict In Latin America, Deborah A. Deacon

Textile Society of America Symposium Proceedings

In the past thirty years, new forms of women’s textiles began appearing throughout Latin America. The techniques used were not indigenous to the region, yet they were used as forms of self-expression of the horrors and sorrows the women experienced as the result of warfare in the region. In the 1970s Chilean artist Violeta Parra Sandoval introduced arpillera-making to women living in Santiago who experienced first hand the agony of having family members tortured, killed or “disappeared” at the hands of the government. Arpilleras use embroidery and appliqué to create scenes of repression, violence and loss. Banned within Chile ...


The Obiko Archive, Jean Cacicedo, Ana Lisa Hedstrom Sep 2014

The Obiko Archive, Jean Cacicedo, Ana Lisa Hedstrom

Textile Society of America Symposium Proceedings

This presentation will discuss the origin and development of a digital archive documenting the Art Wear movement in the Bay Area during the 80s and 90s. The co-producers, Jean Cacicedo and Ana Lisa Hedstrom, members of the Board of Directors of The Textile Art Council of the De Young Museum Fine Arts Museum of San Francisco will share visuals from the archive and address the issues in constructing this project.

It was decided that parameters were necessary, and the archive focuses on the designers for OBIKO, a boutique/ gallery founded in the 70’s by Sandra Sakata.

She was a ...


Textile Art: Connecting The Virtual And Material In My Work, Janice Lessman-Moss Sep 2014

Textile Art: Connecting The Virtual And Material In My Work, Janice Lessman-Moss

Textile Society of America Symposium Proceedings

As a textile artist in the 21st century, I continue to aspire to make art objects that are unique and timely, characteristic of my individual sensibility and experience. Using the latest digital tools - including the TC1(2) Single Thread Control loom - I strive to animate my woven forms through material interaction and a distinctive touch built on a foundation of research and practice - based in digital and hand craft.

In my weavings I explore relationships of abstract systems created with traditional and innovative textile coloring techniques, material contrasts, and the generative processing of the computer and digital loom. Some of ...


More Than A Footnote Or Bibliographic Entry: Mary Lois Kissell As An Innovator Of Textile Study, Ira Jacknis, Erin L. Hasinoff Sep 2014

More Than A Footnote Or Bibliographic Entry: Mary Lois Kissell As An Innovator Of Textile Study, Ira Jacknis, Erin L. Hasinoff

Textile Society of America Symposium Proceedings

Mary Lois Kissell was a pioneer in the comparative cultural study of textiles and basketry, an art educator, a museum anthropologist, and an intrepid fieldworker. When she died in 1944, no obituary was written about her, and no single study has focused on her contributions to textile scholarship. We have not come to know her through a single collection of personal papers; for as far as we can tell, nothing of the kind was ever deposited in a repository. The scattered correspondence that we have amassed by and about Kissell comes from various museum, library, historic society, and university archives ...


Textiles And Museum Displays: Visible And Invisible Dimensions, Ruth Barnes Sep 2014

Textiles And Museum Displays: Visible And Invisible Dimensions, Ruth Barnes

Textile Society of America Symposium Proceedings

The paper discusses changing attitudes towards textiles and their displays in museum collections. As a curator of textiles who has worked in two major university museums, at the Ashmolean Museum in Oxford and the Yale University Art Gallery, over a stretch of more than twenty years, I document a change in attitude to textile history and collections. Much of it is positive, as textiles have moved from a Cinderella role into a position where they are taken seriously both in art and social history.

The two museums mentioned above were recently the subjects of dramatic building projects, and I was ...


Challenging Tradition In Religious Textiles: The Mata Ni Pachedi Of India, Donald Clay Johnson Sep 2014

Challenging Tradition In Religious Textiles: The Mata Ni Pachedi Of India, Donald Clay Johnson

Textile Society of America Symposium Proceedings

A community of block printers and dyers in the Indian state of Gujarat has concentrated upon producing religious textiles for nomadic groups. These unique textiles, known as Mata Ni Pachedi, fulfill the need for a religious representation/environment for groups who have no permanent settlement and thus need to construct temporary shrines for their religious ceremonies. The brilliant red, white, and black cloths portray events from the Mother Goddess tradition. Her depiction as the central and by far the largest representation, as well as the Hindu God Ganesh, distinctively identifies these religious cloths. Since the cloths need to be dried ...


Interwoven Connections: Examining The History Of Scottish Carpet Design To Inform Future Learning, Teaching And Research, Helena Britt Sep 2014

Interwoven Connections: Examining The History Of Scottish Carpet Design To Inform Future Learning, Teaching And Research, Helena Britt

Textile Society of America Symposium Proceedings

As with much of the textile industry in the United Kingdom, carpet manufacturing in the West of Scotland was once thriving. Powder was ground, paint mixed, design papers painted, yarn dyed, spools set and carpets woven. The history of the carpet manufacturing innovators, Stoddard Templeton, dates back to 1845 when James Templeton, a Scot and then Alfred Francis Stoddard, an American, began to produce carpets from disused Paisley shawl mills. The story is one of growth, expansion, worldwide prominence and unfortunately eventual decline. Stoddard Templeton produced carpets for a highly prestigious array of events and interiors including royal coronations and ...