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Textile Society Of America Newsletter 10:3 – Fall 1998 Oct 1998

Textile Society Of America Newsletter 10:3 – Fall 1998

Textile Society of America Newsletters

Beverly Gordon to Lead TSA into a New Millennium by Suzanne Baizermann
Letter from the President
Bibliography 1998
Museums Appoint, Promote Textiles Curators
Reviews
Announcements
Symposia/Seminars/Workshops
Exhibitions
Board of Directors
Report on Computer Use Questionnaire by Ann Liivandi
Hearst Museum Acquires Southeast Asian Textiles
Textile Museum Symposium Explores Avant Garde Roots
The Fifth Biennial (1996) Symposium in Retrospect by Rita J. Adrosko
Announcements
Exhibitions
Board of Directors


Textile Society Of America Newsletter 10:2 – Summer 1998 Jul 1998

Textile Society Of America Newsletter 10:2 – Summer 1998

Textile Society of America Newsletters

The Museum at the Fashion Institute of Technology
Letter from the President
Letter from the Membership Secretary
Letter from the Editor
Calendar of TSA Events
Announcements
TSA ’98: On Your Own in New York City
Symposia/Seminars/Workshops
Exhibitions


Textile Society Of America Newsletter 10:1 – Spring 1998 Apr 1998

Textile Society Of America Newsletter 10:1 – Spring 1998

Textile Society of America Newsletters

The Program by Madelyn Shaw
The Site by Desiree Koslin
Letter from the President
TSA Sponsors Workshop
Calendar of TSA Events
Textile Collections in the Newark Museum by Ulysses Grant Dietz
Reviews
Announcements
Gloria F. Ross Tapestry Center Established
Symposia/Seminars/Workshops
Exhibitions


The Landscape In Transition, Tim Klunder Jan 1998

The Landscape In Transition, Tim Klunder

Theses, Dissertations, and Student Creative Activity, School of Art, Art History and Design

This thesis exhibition consists of a series of urban landscape paintings. These paintings attempt to explore the issues of transition and flux within the modern environment on the edge of Lincoln as the city expands into rural areas. The paintings were all executed in acrylic and comprise a broad range of sizes on both hardboard and wooden panels. The process by which they were conceived was an evolutionary one that began with the analysis of a specific site that is not far from my home and which I see on a daily basis. Initially, the most engaging aspect of this ...


Into The Landscape, Gegory S. Walter Jan 1998

Into The Landscape, Gegory S. Walter

Theses, Dissertations, and Student Creative Activity, School of Art, Art History and Design

"I walked into the landscape as with a Bible in my hand." -John Constable

This thesis project is, in its simplest terms, a study of the landscape. More specifically, it is a study of the spring and summer landscape of certain parts of the Northern Central United States. I have long held a personal fondness for this region, and this study has allowed me to delve deeper into the visual aspects of these places. The vivid, brilliant colors of the Northern landscape which come alive in the weeks following the long and often harsh winter are the constant reminder of ...


The Art Of Abstraction, Daniel A. Siedell Jan 1998

The Art Of Abstraction, Daniel A. Siedell

Sheldon Museum of Art Catalogues and Publications

The Sheldon Memorial Art Gallery and Sculpture Garden is pleased to present The Art of Abstraction. the eleventh annual Sheldon Statewide exhibition. Sheldon Statewide is a unique collaboration between the Sheldon Gallery. the Nebraska Art Association-a nonprofit volunteer membership organization dedicated to the advancement of the visual arts in Nebraska--and the efforts and cooperation of the many Nebraska communities that serve as exhibition venues. After a decade of activity. in which it has participated in the outreach mission of the University of Nebraska-Lincoln. this highly successful touring program has collaborated with the Nebraska Department of Education and the Getty Education ...


Carol Haerer: The White Paintings, Daniel A. Siedell, Charles C. Eldredge Jan 1998

Carol Haerer: The White Paintings, Daniel A. Siedell, Charles C. Eldredge

Sheldon Museum of Art Catalogues and Publications

The Sheldon Memorial Art Gallery and Sculpture Garden is pleased to present Sheldon Solo: Carol Haerer, The White Paintings, an exhibition featuring Carol Haerer's white paintings of the mid to late 1960s. This exhibition is the most recent installment of the "Sheldon Solo" exhibition series, a series established in 1988 to feature the work of important American artists within the context of the Sheldon Gallery's nationally recognized collection of 20th-century American Art.

A midwestern native who attended Doane College and the University of Nebraska-Lincoln, Carol Haerer studied in Paris on a Fulbright Fellowship in 1955, and after receiving ...


Painting And Being: A Meditation On Perception, Myron N. Moore Jan 1998

Painting And Being: A Meditation On Perception, Myron N. Moore

Theses, Dissertations, and Student Creative Activity, School of Art, Art History and Design

The art of painting, as I practice it, is analogous to reevaluating tradition: the purpose being not to determine what is new but to determine anew what is truly relevant. The history of art affects my perception and that which I see celebrates what I find relevant to the present. I have always worked from direct observation. In an art climate that has moved toward conceptual concerns, my response is to explore the perceptual paradigm of western art, without invalidating its tradition. My paintings are a direct response to my environment. In making such work I communicate the significance of ...


Suzani Vernacular: Technique And Design In The Central Asian Dowry Embroideries, Angela Izrailova Jan 1998

Suzani Vernacular: Technique And Design In The Central Asian Dowry Embroideries, Angela Izrailova

Textile Society of America Symposium Proceedings

Introduction

Suzani, (also called Bukhara embroidery) is an embroidered piece of cloth made in the region of Central Asia. The word "suzan" comes from Farsi and means needle, and suzani means "of the needle." Suzanis, which differ in size, pattern, function and types of stitches, were embroidered exclusively by women, rvfuslim and Jewish, from all social backgrounds. They were an important part of a girl's dowry and were used for decorative purposes in Central Asian households.

Although suzanis have been produced since c.17501 they are still relatively unexamined by textile scholars. In the late 1980s, preceding the ...


Weaving For Your Life: Creating Textiles In Dolp A, Nepal, Anne M. Johnson Jan 1998

Weaving For Your Life: Creating Textiles In Dolp A, Nepal, Anne M. Johnson

Textile Society of America Symposium Proceedings

High in the Himalayan mountains, two weeks walk from the nearest road, weaving is a necessity, not an option, for the women of the Dolpa region of Nepal. A woman weaves all of her life, and must weave for her family to survive the difficult life at this high altitude. Picture three weavers working outside in the late winter snowfall, seated on the ground within a low-walled enclosure. There can be more light and warmth outside, rather than inside, their stone houses. Weaving also provides a place of community, where men, women, and children gather to card fibers, spin, weave ...


Ilonka Karasz: Making Modern, Ashley Brown Jan 1998

Ilonka Karasz: Making Modern, Ashley Brown

Textile Society of America Symposium Proceedings

Born in Hungary and "discovered" in New York's Greenwich Village, Ilonka Karasz (1896-1981) brought a unique and remarkable talent to early American modem textile design. Though little known today, her contemporaries described her as "one of the best designers of modem textiles," and noted the "widespread influence among textile manufacturers" of her modem textile designs. Her exploration of textile design from 1915 to 1935 contributed to an exciting time in the history of American textiles when American manufacturers used American designs, experimented with new uses for textiles, and developed new textile materials. Karasz's textile designs from the 1910s ...


Introduction To The Panel, Yoshiko Iwamoto Wada Jan 1998

Introduction To The Panel, Yoshiko Iwamoto Wada

Textile Society of America Symposium Proceedings

The socio-historical factors of this era, including the effect of foreign culture, influenced consumer choice and production decisions regarding meisen textiles. Industrialization brought by the West generated demand for a new urban labor force, thereby providing for women work and educational opportunities that had not previously existed The cloth produced duringJhis time in history spoke of a kind of freedom and a conspicuous popular taste that celebrated women is changing position. Looking at the way women expressed themselves through textiles provides a wonderful approach to understanding this period of recent Japanese history.

Meisen was a commercial term for a popular ...


Exploring Pattern In Woven Design: A Comparison Of Two Seventeenth Century Italian Textiles, Melinda Watt Jan 1998

Exploring Pattern In Woven Design: A Comparison Of Two Seventeenth Century Italian Textiles, Melinda Watt

Textile Society of America Symposium Proceedings

This paper explores the differences in both pattern and technical features between two similar woven silk textiles from the collection of The Metropolitan Museum of Art. The two textiles are seventeenth century Italian woven silks. They have in common an identical brocaded pattern consisting of four floral motifs, two are large and two are small. It is the differences between the two textiles that provoke comparison, more than do their similarities. First, the ground colors are different, as are the ground weaves. Second, the individual brocaded motifs, while identical in detail, are a mirror reflection from one textile to the ...


A Horsehair Woven Band From County Antrim, Ireland: Clues To The Past From A Later Bronze Age Masterwork, Elizabeth Wincott Heckett Jan 1998

A Horsehair Woven Band From County Antrim, Ireland: Clues To The Past From A Later Bronze Age Masterwork, Elizabeth Wincott Heckett

Textile Society of America Symposium Proceedings

Introduction

This paper has as its subject the narrow woven horsehair band from Cromaghs, Co. Antrim in Northern Ireland It is about two thousand eight hundred years old which places it in the Irish Later Bronze Age. Farming was well established in the country and skilled metal workers were producing tools, weapons and ornaments in bronze and gold. The horsehair ornament merits analysis because of its intricacy and outstanding artistry.

It is also important to explore what clues may lie within the band and the other finds associated with it. These may explain what the ornament represented to the people ...


From Kitsch To Art Moderne: Popular Textiles For Women In The First Half Of Twentieth-Century Japan, Masanao Arai Jan 1998

From Kitsch To Art Moderne: Popular Textiles For Women In The First Half Of Twentieth-Century Japan, Masanao Arai

Textile Society of America Symposium Proceedings

When we think of the Meiji period(I868-1912) and the definition of women student's roles in Japanese society, we envision young women with long black hair worn in the style similar to the "Gibson Girl" of the American Victorian period, but with a wide ribbon tied in a big bow, wearing arrow-feather-pattern ikat (yagasuri) kimono with maroon (ebicha) pleated long culotte- like skirt, called hakama, and lace-up boots. The fashion mode of Jagakusei (women students) played an improtant role in the production of meisen textiles.

They're often depicted riding on a bicycle, which was a novel attraction at ...


Exceptional Textiles For Today's Interiors Weaving Our Way Through The Design Community's Exclusive Showrooms, Mia Backman Jan 1998

Exceptional Textiles For Today's Interiors Weaving Our Way Through The Design Community's Exclusive Showrooms, Mia Backman

Textile Society of America Symposium Proceedings

This site seminar will begin with an introduction to the role of designer showrooms and their significance to the interior design community. Following this brief introduction, we will visit two textile showrooms: Donghia and Old World Weavers. These innovative showrooms were chosen for their diversity, leadership, and distinctive market positions. Donghia is known internationally for their creative weave structures that interpret classic forms into fresh modern designs. These light catching textiles are truly the antiques of the future. Old World Weavers industry expertise in the area of recreating historic textile documents has opened the doors to such restoration projects as ...


Bibliography For: Reality And Vitual Reality: Extending The Tradition Of Compound Woven Structures Jan 1998

Bibliography For: Reality And Vitual Reality: Extending The Tradition Of Compound Woven Structures

Textile Society of America Symposium Proceedings

Benjamin, Walter

Emery, Irene

Fannin, Allen A

Grosicki, Z.1.

McCullough, Malcolm.

Newport, Mark.

Nia, Xia.

Oelsner, G. H.

Plant, Sadie.


The Weft-Twined Structures Of Cloaks Of The New Zealand Maori, Margery Blackman Jan 1998

The Weft-Twined Structures Of Cloaks Of The New Zealand Maori, Margery Blackman

Textile Society of America Symposium Proceedings

The Maori cloak

After the settlement of New Zealand in about 1200 AD, Maori women adapted wefttwining techniques for constructing wann clothing suited to the cooler climate of their new habitat. The principal garment was the cloak made with yarns prepared by working and twisting the long fibres extracted from the sword-like leaves of the indigenous plant Phormium tenax, commonly known as New Zealand flax.

The historical evolution of the Maori cloak is largely unknown as only a few fragments and one cloak found in a burial cave are known to be earlier than the cloaks collected by Captain James ...


Investigating The Origins Of The Raphael Tapestries At The Cathedral Of St. John The Divine, Camille Myers Breeze Jan 1998

Investigating The Origins Of The Raphael Tapestries At The Cathedral Of St. John The Divine, Camille Myers Breeze

Textile Society of America Symposium Proceedings

This Site Seminar will focus on research into the location and date of manufacturing of a suite of eight English tapestries depicting "The Acts of the Apostles". The tapestries were donated to the Cathedral of St. John the Divine in 1954 by Louise Brugieres of Newport, RI and New York, NY and have hung in the bays of the nave since that time. Based on cartoons designed by Raphael for Pope Leo X in 1516, they are among fifty-five full or partial copies known of the original tapestries woven for the lower walls of the Sistine Chapel. Seven of the ...


Brokers Of Textile Traditions: The Case Of The Shopkeepers In Turkey, Marlene Breu, Ronald Marchese Jan 1998

Brokers Of Textile Traditions: The Case Of The Shopkeepers In Turkey, Marlene Breu, Ronald Marchese

Textile Society of America Symposium Proceedings

Over the course of the past twenty-five years a cultural transformation has taken place in the Turkish Republic. Overshadowed in more recent years by the political confrontations between secularists and Islamists, an unchecked inflationary spiral that has devalued the national currency, and the social upheavals associated with economic disparity, this cultural transformation has garnished little attention from the more traditionally defined scholarship on the modern Middle East. Revolutionary in nature, it is the result of several factors, among them socio-economic changes brought about by a shift in world markets and the liberalization of the Turkish economy. It is responsible for ...


A Look Inside And Behind Central Asian Ikats, Annie Carlano Jan 1998

A Look Inside And Behind Central Asian Ikats, Annie Carlano

Textile Society of America Symposium Proceedings

The recent publications and exhibitions about Central Asian ikats have been highJy acclaimed projects in both their scholarly and their interpretive excellence. Extensive information about the ikats is now available. But while much of the history of these silk luxury items is known, much less has been written about the "flip side" of the story, the original or indigenous linings of the robes and backings of the wall hangings. There are two types of such textiles. The earliest extant fabrics are the woodblock printed chit type which have been well researched. This presentation will focus on the other, more esoteric ...


Re-Defining Tradition: Handweavers To The World, Seema Chandna Jan 1998

Re-Defining Tradition: Handweavers To The World, Seema Chandna

Textile Society of America Symposium Proceedings

It is my ongoing attraction for, and love of, Indian textiles that brought me back to my country of birth after spending several years, studying and working, in New York. This paper deals with my research, experience and observations, over the last year, working closely with the hand-weaving industry in India.

At my design studio, in Bangalore, I have a multi-treadle handloom and have employed a local hand-weaver. We create the designs and make sample swatches at the studio. For production of yardage, based on our swatches, we work with various weaving centers, located in different Southern Indian villages. Depending ...


Between Tradition And Modernity: Textile Design Education In Lyons At The Beginning Of The 20th Century, Florence Charpigny Jan 1998

Between Tradition And Modernity: Textile Design Education In Lyons At The Beginning Of The 20th Century, Florence Charpigny

Textile Society of America Symposium Proceedings

With regard to textile design in general, and Lyonnais designers in particular, there is still no global synthesis and very little detailed research available. Yet, some studies were published in Lyon, at the end of the 19th and beginning of the 20th century, by local historians with family, professional and cultural links with the silk manufactures. It is not coincidence that their work occurred at this period: at the end of the 19th century, the Lyonnais silk industry went through a series of serious economic and structural crises. The change begun at the beginning of the 19th century with the ...


The Mystery Of The Eisenhower Toile, Cindy Cook Jan 1998

The Mystery Of The Eisenhower Toile, Cindy Cook

Textile Society of America Symposium Proceedings

The Eisenhower toile is a twentieth-century textile with a story to tell-through its motifs and its creators. The motifs in this toile represent the story of Dwight D. Eisenhower's life. The creation of the Eisenhower toile is a story of mystery and intrigue involving a famous American couple, Dwight and Mamie Eisenhower; a prominent interior designer, Elisabeth Draper; a prestigious textile company, F. Schumacher & Co.; and a mystery designer.

The Eisenhower toile is a printed cotton produced by F. Schumacher & Co. of New York from 1956 to 1960. Schumacher produced the 36" wide fabric with a 36" repeat in ten ...


Exploring Patttern In "Kashmir" And "Paisley" Shawls, Arlene C. Cooper Jan 1998

Exploring Patttern In "Kashmir" And "Paisley" Shawls, Arlene C. Cooper

Textile Society of America Symposium Proceedings

Using six extraordinary shawls from the collection of the Metropolitan Museum of Art, this presentation will explore the relationship bwtween how a shawl is made and the symmetry system used in its patterning, and briefly consider the terminology which might best express these relationships. Certain symmetry systems and styles of shawl patterning may evolve from the capabilities of particular looms. For instance, weaving on a basic Indian hand loom with the characteristic Indian shawl weave, 2/2 double-interlocked twill, is a very slow process, which encourages simple symmetry: a motif repeating exactly across the width of a textile, or straight ...


Unit Turning Blocks For Designing Tablet Weavings, Bonita R. Datta Jan 1998

Unit Turning Blocks For Designing Tablet Weavings, Bonita R. Datta

Textile Society of America Symposium Proceedings

This paper describes a design process for tablet weaving with four-holed tablets. It addresses the following techniques: twining; Egyptian diagonals~ four-colour diagonals; 3/1 twill; and, 2/1 twill.

DEFINITIONS

Threading direction is the way in which the yarns pass through the holes in the tablets. These diagrams show the two possible threading directions. The fell line of the fabric is above, the unwoven warp is below, and the front surface of the textile faces the viewer.

This paper assumes all tablets are Z-threaded. The impact of alternating or symmetrical threading arrangements, and the operation of flipping tablets to reverse ...


An Early Seventeenth-Century Japanese Textile In The Metropolitan Museum Of Art, Joyce Denney Jan 1998

An Early Seventeenth-Century Japanese Textile In The Metropolitan Museum Of Art, Joyce Denney

Textile Society of America Symposium Proceedings

As a site seminar at the Metropolitan Museum of Art, a rare early seventeenth-century Japanese robe (kosode) in the Museum's collection (see ill.) was examined in depth. The sumptuous complexity of the textile from which the robe was made was analyzed, with emphasis on the textile's makers and their methods as well as the markets of the period.

The ground fabric, a white float-patterned plain-weave silk, was probably produced in China. During this period Chinese silk was highly prized in Japan; nevertheless, this imported cloth was then highly embellished. The textile was resist-dyed in irregularly bordered bands that ...


The "New Deal" Child Artist: Textiles From The Educational Alliance Art School, Joanne Dolan Jan 1998

The "New Deal" Child Artist: Textiles From The Educational Alliance Art School, Joanne Dolan

Textile Society of America Symposium Proceedings

INTRODUCTION

Progressive educational theories, many which had their roots in the late nineteenth century, were put to the test as a result of the Federal Art Project initiative. A small collection of printed textiles at the Museum at FIT produced during the second half of the nineteen-thirties at the Educational Alliance Art School in New York City reflect philosophies relevant to the period of the New Deal. The textiles represent and illustrate major social forces in America: the late nineteenth century settlement house providing services such as language, citizenship, and skills training; Roosevelt's New Deal and the federal relief ...


The Calligrammatic Pattern: An Aspect Of Modernism In French Textile Design, Lourdes M. Font Jan 1998

The Calligrammatic Pattern: An Aspect Of Modernism In French Textile Design, Lourdes M. Font

Textile Society of America Symposium Proceedings

This paper is less concerned with Twentieth Century French textiles as such than with what may have inspired their designers, with the possibilities suggested to textile artists in places where art, literature and design meet. To an artist with an appetite for the new, few places offered more possibilities than Paris in the decades before and after World War I. Between 1910 and 1940, textile designers working in Paris were part of a dose-knit community of the avant-garde that included writers, musicians, architects, painters, illustrators, interior and theatrical set designers, costumers and couturiers -- who not only mingled and took on ...


Textiles - An Art Form For The 90'S: Advancing Fiber With New Concepts & Marketing Strategies, Elizabeth Gaston, Laura Hill Jan 1998

Textiles - An Art Form For The 90'S: Advancing Fiber With New Concepts & Marketing Strategies, Elizabeth Gaston, Laura Hill

Textile Society of America Symposium Proceedings

This panel discussion provided a forum for an exploration of the place and meaning of contemporary textile art. It was one of several concurrent panels held on the final afternoon of the Sixth Biennial Textile Society of America Symposium. Textiles An Art Form For the 90's brought together artists and enthusiasts from many backgrounds and with different perspectives. Four participants presented formal papers accompanied by slides. This was followed by a panel discussion.

The chairperson was Patricia Malarcher, editor of Surface Design Journal. She shared the viewpoint of the media. Malarcher also presented Susan Lordi Marker's paper. Marker ...