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Fiber, Textile, and Weaving Arts

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Full-Text Articles in Art and Design

Weaving Material Connexion Into Curriculum, Shelley Woods, Gouthami Vigneswaran, Patricia Buckley Jan 2020

Weaving Material Connexion Into Curriculum, Shelley Woods, Gouthami Vigneswaran, Patricia Buckley

Publications and Scholarship

Weaving Material ConneXion into the Curriculum poster presented at OLA Super Conference 2020.


The Role Of Nostalgia In Retro Sewing, Charity S. Armstead, Ellen C. Mckinney Dec 2019

The Role Of Nostalgia In Retro Sewing, Charity S. Armstead, Ellen C. Mckinney

Apparel, Events and Hospitality Management Publications

This article explores the role of nostalgia as a motivation for retro sewing and the ways in which nostalgia shapes the practices of retro sewing. Retro sewers circumvent typical models of clothing consumption by opting out of the commercial fashion cycle, and instead creating clothing for everyday use that replicates or is inspired by styles from the past. As such, the practice of retro sewing is inextricably linked to one or more of the many forms of nostalgia. Previous studies on consumers and nostalgia have not considered the full breadth of how consumers interact with nostalgia. This article explains what ...


Ciencia De Las Mujeres: Experiencias En La Cadena Textil Desde Los Ayllus De Challapata, Denise Y. Arnold, Elvira Espejo Dec 2019

Ciencia De Las Mujeres: Experiencias En La Cadena Textil Desde Los Ayllus De Challapata, Denise Y. Arnold, Elvira Espejo

Textile Research Works

En el contexto de la crisis económica que atravesó Bolivia en los años ochenta, una comunidad de puna de pastores andinos, Livichuco, que forma parte integral del ayllu mayor de Qaqachaka, emprendió por iniciativa propia un proceso de mejoramiento de su producción textil, con un programa de rescate de los tintes naturales de la región. Con recursos mínimos, los comunarios compraron ollas y bateas metálicas, y comenzaron a preguntar a las personas mayores sobre sus conocimientos prácticos tradicionales en el ámbito de la tinción de textiles. Durante un período de diez años, y en coordinación con varias instituciones —incluida la ...


Measurement Of Antibacterial Properties Of Foil‑Backed Electrospun Nanofibers, Mary Ann Wagner-Graham, Herbert Barndt, Mark Andrew Sunderland Nov 2019

Measurement Of Antibacterial Properties Of Foil‑Backed Electrospun Nanofibers, Mary Ann Wagner-Graham, Herbert Barndt, Mark Andrew Sunderland

College of Life Sciences Faculty Papers

Current methodologies for evaluation of antibacterial properties of traditional textiles are not applicable to foil‑backed, poorly‑absorbent electrospun nanofiber materials, since existing test methods require absorbent fabrics. Since electrospun nanofibers are adhered to the foil backing only by electrostatic interactions, methods used to evaluate antibacterial properties of surfaces cannot be used because these protocols cause the nanofibers to lift from the foil backing. Therefore, a novel method for measurement of the antibacterial properties of electrospun metallic foil‑backed nanofiber materials was developed. This method indicated that acetate‑based nanofibers manufactured to contain 5 to 30 weight percent of cold ...


Why Do They Sew? Women’S Motivations To Sew Clothing For Themselves, Addie Martindale, Ellen C. Mckinney Aug 2019

Why Do They Sew? Women’S Motivations To Sew Clothing For Themselves, Addie Martindale, Ellen C. Mckinney

Apparel, Events and Hospitality Management Publications

Garment sewing is undergoing a resurgence in participation, with a growing number of women choosing to sew their clothing instead of buying readily available fast fashion. The purpose of this qualitative study was to understand the current motivations of an ethnically diverse sample of women who sew garments for themselves. The in-depth interview data from 15 interviews revealed personal fulfillment to be the overarching reason for participation. Personal fulfillment was achieved through main emergent themes of investment, control, and empowerment with 10 subthemes. Theoretical perspectives of prosumerism, craft and do-it-yourself consumption, and uses and gratification theory were applied to the ...


Christopherson, Kathryn Kendall (Donley) "Katy," 1921-2017 (Mss 672), Manuscripts & Folklife Archives Aug 2019

Christopherson, Kathryn Kendall (Donley) "Katy," 1921-2017 (Mss 672), Manuscripts & Folklife Archives

MSS Finding Aids

Finding aid only for Manuscripts Collection 672. Correspondence, articles, interviews, photographs, and printed matter relating to the work of Katy Christopherson, Louisville, Kentucky, as a maker, curator, judge, lecturer and writer on quilts and quilting. Includes material relating to her involvement with the Kentucky Heritage Quilt Society and the Louisville Nimble Thimbles, Inc.


Jennifer Tshab Her, Allison Bautista Jun 2019

Jennifer Tshab Her, Allison Bautista

Asian American Art Oral History Project

Artist Bio: My work demonstrates and complicates the politics of displacement through my experience as a second-generation Hmong-American woman. As a nation-less ethnic minority from Southeast Asia, I fear cultural extinction. I create work that reveals the diaspora of the Hmong, questioning the roles of site and place, and instead looking in-between. My work engages political and cultural space through multidisciplinary practices such as embroidery, installation, and social practice. I use color as a dialogue–a tool for bringing attention to space, claiming space and recognizing how spaces are claimed. I interpret the question of ownership, whether land or body ...


Entangled, Katherine Cox Apr 2019

Entangled, Katherine Cox

Theses, Dissertations, and Student Creative Activity, School of Art, Art History and Design

I create objects to incite wonder through their exuberance, inviting one to explore the beauty found in the strange and offering the viewer a way to interact with the discomfort of the unknown. Mysculptures are an assembly of engaging surfaces and forms revealing varying texturesandvibrant colors referencing natural and fabricated worlds. Each sculpture is entangled within its own environment or narrative and each is adorned for its own role, finding a balance between discord and harmony, captivation and repulsion.

Each is an individual exploration of the distinct qualities inherent within each object. They are precious in scale and stimulate ...


Claycomb, Marilou (Irwin), B. 1936 (Sc 3314), Manuscripts & Folklife Archives Jan 2019

Claycomb, Marilou (Irwin), B. 1936 (Sc 3314), Manuscripts & Folklife Archives

MSS Finding Aids

Finding aid only for Manuscripts Small Collection 3314. Collection of four Home Worker Handbooks detailing work done by Marilou (Irwin) Claycomb for Eleanor Beard, Inc. of Hardinsburg, Breckinridge County, Kentucky. Irwin did contract quilting from June 1959 until August 1966. Each of the four U.S. Department of Labor #FO-75 booklets list the date issued, number, style, article, rate, date returned, number completed, hours worked, wages and date of payment of her public contract work.


Arts And Society: A Symbiosis, Mayur Singh Jan 2019

Arts And Society: A Symbiosis, Mayur Singh

Social Space

Looking back in history, it is hard to pinpoint exactly when and why people engaged in the arts. We know that cavemen used it to record and represent objects around them, but also that over time the arts came to be appreciated as a reflection of the skills and creative genius of their creators. The arts has also been used by governments to reflect the views of the state.


Effect Of Fabric Deformation On Thermal Protective Performance Of Clothing In A Cylindrical Configuration, Yun Su, Rui Li, Jie Yang, Guowen Song, Chunhui Xiang, Jun Li Jan 2019

Effect Of Fabric Deformation On Thermal Protective Performance Of Clothing In A Cylindrical Configuration, Yun Su, Rui Li, Jie Yang, Guowen Song, Chunhui Xiang, Jun Li

Apparel, Events and Hospitality Management Publications

Firefighting protective clothing is designed to provide thermal protection for firefighters in fire extinguishing or rescuing operations. However, fabric deformation and stretching due to body movement and different postures could change the clothing's thermal protective performance. Current gaps in our knowledge with regard to fabric deformation often resulted in biased predictions of the thermal protective level that personal protective equipment (PPE) can provide, highlighting the need to improve our understanding in this field. In this study, we developed a device that can be connected to a cylindrical copper calorimeter to simulate fabric deformation due to body movement and different ...


Ciencia De Tejer En Los Andes: Estructuras Y Técnicas De Faz De Urdimbre, Denise Y. Arnold, Elvira Espejo Jan 2019

Ciencia De Tejer En Los Andes: Estructuras Y Técnicas De Faz De Urdimbre, Denise Y. Arnold, Elvira Espejo

Textile Research Works

Las estructuras y técnicas de los textiles andinos, en las piezas arqueológicas y en las piezas tanto históricas como contemporáneas, se cuentan entre las más complejas del mundo. Si bien el tapiz o faz de trama quizá sea el más conocido de todos los tipos de tela de la región, es sin duda en las telas de faz de urdimbre donde estas estructuras y técnicas han alcanzado su máximo desarrollo, sobre todo en nuestros tiempos. Varios estudios anteriores han intentado describir las estructuras y técnicas de faz de urdimbre, fundamentalmente los libros clásicos Textiles of Anciente Peru and their Techniques ...


Heritage, Tradition, And Craft In Quiltmaking (Fa 1131), Manuscripts & Folklife Archives Nov 2018

Heritage, Tradition, And Craft In Quiltmaking (Fa 1131), Manuscripts & Folklife Archives

FA Finding Aids

Finding aid only for Folklife Archives Project 1131. Collection contains Interviews, photographs, and informant data sheets relating to Sandy Staebell's project with quiltmakers in Allen County and Monroe County, Kentucky and Macon County, Tennessee for the 2017-2018 Osby Lee Hire and Lillian K. Garrison Hire Memorial Lecture Series.


Review Of Fashion, Technology And Health: Future Directions For The Apparel Industry, Rachel J. Eike, Sonia Bakhshian Oct 2018

Review Of Fashion, Technology And Health: Future Directions For The Apparel Industry, Rachel J. Eike, Sonia Bakhshian

Apparel, Events and Hospitality Management Publications

This review briefly analyzes fashion, technology, and health-related observations in industries to make suggestions for the future direction of growth for apparel and product development. This article highlights technology-embedded apparel and textile products currently presented in the market or made known via web promotion or conference exhibition. Many of these textile products are primarily associated with health care and fitness-related intentions - showing support and direction of health and technology for a future scope in fashion and apparel industries. The objective of this review was to identify challenges associated with ‘smart’ textile production, reference examples of technology integration in textile-based wearables ...


Textile Society Of America Newsletter 30:2 — Fall 2018, Textile Society Of America Oct 2018

Textile Society Of America Newsletter 30:2 — Fall 2018, Textile Society Of America

Textile Society of America Newsletters

Letter from the Editor

Letter from the President

TSA News
Welcome New TSA Board Members
Our Focus on Diversity: Vision Statement
R. L. Shep Ethnic Textile Book Award
Diedrick Brackens Honored with 2018 Brandford/Elliott Award

International Report
Featured Exhibitions
Centre for Heritage, Arts and Textile (CHAT)
Opportunity
The University of North Texas to Close Fibers Program by Spring 2019

TSA Symposium
The Social Fabric: Deep Local to Pan Global in pictures
TSA Members' Exhibition
Reports from Student & New Professional Awardees

A Long-Delayed Professional Conversation

Book Reviews
Art, Honor, and Ridicule: Fante Asafo Flags from Southern Ghana
Polychromatic Screen Printing ...


Rawlins, Arline Mclean (Perkins), 1899-1962 (Mss 647), Manuscripts & Folklife Archives Sep 2018

Rawlins, Arline Mclean (Perkins), 1899-1962 (Mss 647), Manuscripts & Folklife Archives

MSS Finding Aids

Finding aid only for Manuscripts Collection 647. Material about the hooked rug designs created and executed by Arline McLean (Perkins) Rawlins of Bowling Green, Kentucky. Includes correspondence, published and unpublished articles, and photographs


Stranded Cellular Automaton And Weaving Products, Hao Yang Sep 2018

Stranded Cellular Automaton And Weaving Products, Hao Yang

Mathematical Sciences Technical Reports (MSTR)

In order to analyze weaving products mathematically and find out valid weaving products, it is natural to relate them to Cellular Automaton. They are both generated based on specific rules and some initial conditions. Holden and Holden have created a Stranded Cellular Automaton that can represent common weaving and braiding products. Based on their previous findings, we were able to construct a Java program and analyze various aspects of the automaton they created. This paper will discuss the complexity of the Stranded Cellular Automaton, how to determine whether a weaving product holds together or not based on the automaton and ...


Richardson, Laura Elizabeth (Ferguson), 1908-1986 (Mss 645), Manuscripts & Folklife Archives Aug 2018

Richardson, Laura Elizabeth (Ferguson), 1908-1986 (Mss 645), Manuscripts & Folklife Archives

MSS Finding Aids

Finding aid and full text scans of correspondence in box one (Click on the "Additional Files" below for Manuscripts Collection 645. Letters, photographs, and research notes belonging to quilt collector Laura Elizabeth Richardson. Includes letters and research materials from noted quilt authority Florence Peto.


Powell, Steve (Fa 1195), Manuscripts & Folklife Archives Jun 2018

Powell, Steve (Fa 1195), Manuscripts & Folklife Archives

FA Finding Aids

Finding aid only for Folklife Archives Project 1195. Student paper titled “Quilting for Frugality” in which Steve Powell interviews close family members and friends about their experiences with quilt making. Powell offers a brief biographical background on each informant along with individual motivations and inspirations for crafting quilts. The paper includes color photographs of various types of quilting patterns and one sample of a quilting square.


Jarvis, Brenda (Fa 1199), Manuscripts & Folklife Archives Jun 2018

Jarvis, Brenda (Fa 1199), Manuscripts & Folklife Archives

FA Finding Aids

Finding aid only for Folklife Archives Project 1199. Student paper titled “The Quilting Art” in which Brenda Jarvis interviews her mother, Jane Jarvis, about her experiences related to crafting quilts. The author provides a biographical summary of her mother and describes her early forays into quilt making. Jarvis also describes the social aspects of quilting, patterns as a reflection of certain lifestyles, the process of quilt construction, and the materials necessary to complete the final product. Included in the paper are color photographs of various quilting styles along with samples of quilting handiwork.


Morris, Brenda (Fa 1166), Manuscripts & Folklife Archives Jun 2018

Morris, Brenda (Fa 1166), Manuscripts & Folklife Archives

FA Finding Aids

Finding aid only for Folklife Archives Project 1166. Student paper titled “Quilting” in which Brenda Morris explains the process of piecing together a quilt. Morris, who worked directly with long-time quilter Oma Grant, includes step-by-step instructions along with photographs at various stages throughout the course of crafting. Also included are design patterns and completed samples of handiwork.


Clarke, Mary Louise (Washington), 1913-1999 (Mss 634), Manuscripts & Folklife Archives Jun 2018

Clarke, Mary Louise (Washington), 1913-1999 (Mss 634), Manuscripts & Folklife Archives

MSS Finding Aids

Finding aid only for Manuscripts Collection 634. Research, correspondence and photographs relating to the scholarly study of Kentucky author Jesse Stuart by WKU English and folklore professor Mary (Washington) Clarke. Includes correspondence with Stuart, editors and other scholars in connection with her book Jesse Stuart’s Kentucky and other publications. Also includes research and correspondence relating to Clarke’s book Kentucky Quilts and Their Makers.


Soheila Azadi Interview, Jillian Bridgeman Jun 2018

Soheila Azadi Interview, Jillian Bridgeman

Asian American Art Oral History Project

Artist Bio: Soheila Azadi is an interdisciplinary visual artist and lecturer based in Chicago and Iran. Born in the capital of Islamic cities, Esfahan, Azadi absorbed story-telling skills through Persian miniature drawings since she was nine. Azadi’s inspirations come from her experiences of being a woman while living under Theocracy. Now residing in the U.S. Azadi is dedicated to transnational feminism with a passionate devotion to the ways in which race, religion, gender, sexuality, and ethnicity intersect. Azadi uses performance art and performative installations as methods to both materialize and narrate stories about women’s everyday struggle in ...


Los Productos Textiles De Los Andes Sur-Centrales: Guía Ontológica Centrada En La Región Aymara-Hablante, Denise Y. Arnold Jun 2018

Los Productos Textiles De Los Andes Sur-Centrales: Guía Ontológica Centrada En La Región Aymara-Hablante, Denise Y. Arnold

Textile Research Works

El presente libro ofrece una organización ontológica de los productos textiles andinos. A nivel mundial, los museólogos están dando cuenta de la utilidad de este recurso para estructurar sus colecciones de objetos y para vincularlas con datos de respaldo (registros, catálogos, dibujos, fotos, etc.). Una ontología es una especificación explícita de una conceptualización, que proporciona una estructura y los contenidos que codifican las reglas implícitas de una parte de la realidad, en este caso del dominio textil. Aquí presentamos una representación del conocimiento del dominio textil centrada en las ‘formas’ textiles, por decir los tipos de prendas (ahuayo, acso, unco ...


Hoyt, Roy (Fa 1145), Manuscripts & Folklife Archives May 2018

Hoyt, Roy (Fa 1145), Manuscripts & Folklife Archives

FA Finding Aids

Finding aid only for Folklife Archives Project 1145. Student paper titled “Upholstery – A Folk Occupation” in which Roy Hoyt speaks with Frank Black, a resident of Burgin, Kentucky and “the last of the true ‘tufters’ in his portion of Kentucky.” In the interviews conducted by Hoyt, Black, who had been a craftsman for more than three decades, details the tools, materials, and processes used to upholster furniture. The paper also includes occupational anecdotes and color photographs of Black’s workshop, machines, and finished products.


How To Be The Perfect Asian Wife!, Sophia Hill Apr 2018

How To Be The Perfect Asian Wife!, Sophia Hill

Art and Art History Honors Projects

“How to be the Perfect Asian Wife” critiques exploitative power systems that assault female bodies of color in intersectional ways. This work explores strategies of healing and resistance through inserting one’s own narrative of flourishing rather than surviving, while reflecting violent realities. Three large drawings mimic pervasive advertisement language and presentation reflecting the oppressive strategies used to contain women of color. Created with charcoal, watercolor, and ink, these 'advertisements' contrast with an interactive rice bag filled with comics of my everyday experiences. These documentations compel viewers to reflect on their own participation in systems of power.


Battle Of The Washita: Swosu Libraries Honor 150th Anniversary, April Miller Apr 2018

Battle Of The Washita: Swosu Libraries Honor 150th Anniversary, April Miller

Faculty Articles & Research

SWOSU Libraries, the Art Department, and the Washita Battlefield National Historic Site Joined forces in 2017 to host a four-part workshop titled: Make Your Own Moccasins with Southwestern Cheyenne Artists, George Levi, and Creg Lee Hart. Due to Dr. Peters hard work, a grant was received from the Oklahoma Arts Council to pay for the majority of the supplies needed for attendees to make their own moccasins.


Textile Society Of America Newsletter 30:1 — Spring 2018, Textile Society Of America Apr 2018

Textile Society Of America Newsletter 30:1 — Spring 2018, Textile Society Of America

Textile Society of America Newsletters

Letter from the Senior Editor

Letter from the Editor

Letter from the President

TSA News:
From the Nomination Committee
Slate of Candidates

TSA "Meet Up" at the Textile Museum, Washington, DC

R. L. Shep Ethnic Textile Book Award 2017 Nominees

Textile Society of America 30th Anniversary
A Personal Connection to TSA

Call for Submissions: Textile Month

RE: Gender Bend: Women In Wood, Men at the Loom

Coping with the Perils from Apparel

Book Reviews
Women Artisans of Morocco: Their Stories Their Lives
From Tapestry to Fiber Art: The Lausanne Biennials, 1962-1995
Inside the Royal Wardrobe: A Dress History of Queen ...


Nicks, Sarah Elizabeth (Fa 1132), Manuscripts & Folklife Archives Mar 2018

Nicks, Sarah Elizabeth (Fa 1132), Manuscripts & Folklife Archives

FA Finding Aids

Finding aid only for Folklife Archives Project 1132. Student paper titled “Quilting: Past and Present” in which Sarah Nicks details the components of traditional quilt making. Nicks discusses piecing together patterns and the various motivations behind quilting. Information was collected by Nicks from family and friends. The collection contains color photographs of handmade quilts, a questionnaire related to quilting practices, and a sample piece of a quilt patch.


Processing The Theresa-India Young Papers: A Research Inventory Grant Project, Meghan Bailey Mar 2018

Processing The Theresa-India Young Papers: A Research Inventory Grant Project, Meghan Bailey

Joseph P. Healey Library Publications

The University Archives and Special Collections department in the Joseph P. Healey Library at UMass Boston was awarded a Research Inventory Grant from Mass Humanities in June 2017. This allowed us the opportunity to devote a significant amount of time and resources to acquire, arrange, and describe the papers of noted Boston fiber artist, educator, and artist activist, Theresa-India Young. View the finding aid for the Theresa-India Young papers here. An exhibit showcasing materials from the collection is planned for June 2018 at the Grossmann Gallery in the Joseph P. Healey Library. The following is a presentation that describes who ...