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Full-Text Articles in Art and Design

Seamless Knitted Sports Bra Design: A Responsive System Design Exploration, Adriana C. Gorea, Fatma Baytar, Eulanda Sanders Jan 2018

Seamless Knitted Sports Bra Design: A Responsive System Design Exploration, Adriana C. Gorea, Fatma Baytar, Eulanda Sanders

International Textile and Apparel Association (ITAA) Annual Conference Proceedings

The transition of sports bras’ uses, from an active lifestyle to resting activities, requires adaptable comfort properties of the design (Quinn, 2010). In the current age of technological revolution, the sports bra industry is still not offering an adaptable and responsive sports bra, which supports the body during high impact sports while feeling soft and comfortable during rest (Hansman, 2017). Moreover, the current commercial sports bras are made using all synthetic yarns and using garment dyeing processes that are not ecological sustainable (McCann, 2005).Thus, the two-fold purpose of this study was to: (a) analyze the materials and processes used ...


Celestial Indigo, Sherry Haar, Emily Andrews, Tracey Martin, Jeanne Hankerson, Bianca Sandord Jan 2018

Celestial Indigo, Sherry Haar, Emily Andrews, Tracey Martin, Jeanne Hankerson, Bianca Sandord

International Textile and Apparel Association (ITAA) Annual Conference Proceedings

Celestial Indigo

Sherry Haar and Emily Andrews, Kansas State University

Tracey Martin, Threads of Evolution, Scottsdale, AZ

Jeanne Hankerson, SJ Couture, Scottsdale, AZ and Bianca Sanford, FABRIC, Tempe, AZ

Keywords: capping, indigo, fructose, fermentation vat, refashion, sustainability

The dress, Celestial Indigo, was the result of a collaborative effort between a book author, designer, stitcher, and natural dyers. Tracey Martin (2017), author of Sustainable in Stilettos, is passionate about a book cover’s intrinsic messages. Celestial Indigo, created for Martin’s book cover, holds messages of refashioning, versatility, natural color, and collaboration. A halter dress was refashioned by designing a skirt ...


Kuroguro Presence: A Conceptual Design Collaboration, Adriana C. Gorea, Jeffrey Mayer, Todd Conover Jan 2018

Kuroguro Presence: A Conceptual Design Collaboration, Adriana C. Gorea, Jeffrey Mayer, Todd Conover

International Textile and Apparel Association (ITAA) Annual Conference Proceedings

This case study explored how a team of three fashion design instructors and practitioners developed a collaborative conceptual design, aiming to improve their teaching methods and upskill their craft via learnings from their own social interactive practice.


Indigo Chrysanthemum, Belinda Orzada Jan 2018

Indigo Chrysanthemum, Belinda Orzada

International Textile and Apparel Association (ITAA) Annual Conference Proceedings

This dress was a sustainable design challenge using geometric shapes to achieve a zero waste garment design. All garment “pattern” pieces originated as either squares or rectangles and were draped on the dressform to develop the final design. My aesthetic goals for this design combine cultural and environmental sustainability by exploring the use of shibori in an apparel application, combined with the use of natural dye (indigo) to color the silk.


Scar-Red, Susan Avila Jan 2018

Scar-Red, Susan Avila

International Textile and Apparel Association (ITAA) Annual Conference Proceedings

This garment is part of a wearable art collection called Matters of Dis-Ease, inspired by the red dress symbol used by the U.S. National Institutes of Health and the American Heart Association to promote awareness of women’s cardiovascular disease, the number one killer of women. The collection, comprised of sculptural garments created from red textile waste salvaged from the garment industry (meant to parallel the waste from disease), is designed to make visible what is often invisible, not only the disease itself but also the stigma of a disease that may be exasperated by personal lifestyle choices. Scar-Red ...


Blooming Moth Dress, Della Reams, Hisham Dawoud, Larry D. Rushing Jan 2018

Blooming Moth Dress, Della Reams, Hisham Dawoud, Larry D. Rushing

International Textile and Apparel Association (ITAA) Annual Conference Proceedings

Original draped dress design using original digitally-printed fabric design.


Interconnect: A Double Collaboration, Brianna Plummer, Lynn M. Boorady, Carol Townsend Jan 2018

Interconnect: A Double Collaboration, Brianna Plummer, Lynn M. Boorady, Carol Townsend

International Textile and Apparel Association (ITAA) Annual Conference Proceedings

Departments of Biology, Art & Design and Fashion collaborated to create a line of garments with surface design prints inspired by nature. Freshmen art students were given access to a herbarium to view over 16,000 specimens and used this as inspiration to develop distinct motifs of symmetrical and asymmetrical designs. The top 13 images were chosen and digitally scanned. The scanned designs were given to surface design students in the Fashion department to develop industry ready repeat tiles and engineered yardage. Minimal restrictions on manipulation of these designs was imposed. Faculty contracted a professional fabric printing surface to create yardage ...


Visual Perception, Rachel Anderson, Sahand Abbasi Jan 2018

Visual Perception, Rachel Anderson, Sahand Abbasi

International Textile and Apparel Association (ITAA) Annual Conference Proceedings

This piece is a collaborative piece between the disciplines of fashion design and interior design.The project “Visual Perception” is trying to bring controlled anxiety to the soul of the perceiver by creating visual dizzying effect in both moving and static situation. The visual form was the priority in this project, which may conclude a visual meaning through media.

Two main technological processes conducted in the project were (1) 3D printing and (2) digital printing. A third process of draping included the leather bodice being draped using traditional techniques. The skirt was draped using uncut blocks of fabric draped directly ...


Some Like It Hot: Naturally-Dyed Hot Yoga Apparel, Denise Nicole Green Jan 2018

Some Like It Hot: Naturally-Dyed Hot Yoga Apparel, Denise Nicole Green

International Textile and Apparel Association (ITAA) Annual Conference Proceedings

Yoga is a discipline that emerged on the Indian subcontinent thousands of years ago, with the earliest origins recorded in Vedic texts (c. 1200 BCE) and more formalized written accounts in the Yoga Sutras of Patanjali (c. 500 CE). While there are eight limbs of yoga, the Western world is most familiar with asana, also known as Hatha Yoga, which is the physical practice of yoga asanas (body postures). Over the past 50 years, numerous forms of Hatha Yoga have grown in popularity in the West. According to Statista, it was estimated that approximately 15 million U.S. Americans practiced ...


A Study On The Cultural Role Of Walking Court Ladies’ Hat In Queen Jeongsun’S Wedding Parade Illustration Of Oegyujanggak Uigwe, Jeong Choi Jan 2018

A Study On The Cultural Role Of Walking Court Ladies’ Hat In Queen Jeongsun’S Wedding Parade Illustration Of Oegyujanggak Uigwe, Jeong Choi

International Textile and Apparel Association (ITAA) Annual Conference Proceedings

This study considers the cultural role of walking court ladies’ hats in a wedding parade illustration of Oegyujanggak Uigwe that focuses on the parade of Queen Jeongsun. Walking court ladies’ hat and hairstyle were changed immediately into a loose wig, jokduri-shaped hat, and chignon when the costume policy was legislated by the king. Jokduri, small padding hat, was recommended by the king’s command in 1756 for the first time instead of a massive wig, however discussions continued from 1748-49. Loose wigs disappeared in wedding parade illustration of Queen Jeongsun of 1759, 4 walking court ladies wore angled black ...


Sparkling Refreshment, Susan Avila Jan 2018

Sparkling Refreshment, Susan Avila

International Textile and Apparel Association (ITAA) Annual Conference Proceedings

This garment was initially inspired by Paco Rabanne’s use of non-traditional materials in his 1960s “unwearable” fashion designs. The fabric for the garment body was made from circles cut from recycled aluminum cans that were sewn onto a dissolvable substrate to create a net. The t-shaped garment is entirely constructed through the stitching process without any seams. To make the garment more comfortable to wear, knit cut waste from the garment industry was cut into circles and applied to the back as a lining. The waste from the circle cut cans was crushed and sewn onto a repurposed fabric ...


A Study On The Development Status And Type Classification Of Global Smart Healthcare Wearable Device, Kayoung Shin, Jeongeun Lee, Wolhee Do Jan 2018

A Study On The Development Status And Type Classification Of Global Smart Healthcare Wearable Device, Kayoung Shin, Jeongeun Lee, Wolhee Do

International Textile and Apparel Association (ITAA) Annual Conference Proceedings

In recent years, companies have started producing innovative products that combine Information and Communications Technology (ICT) with textiles, and consumer interest in the wearable industry is increasing.

By searching Korean and English keywords in Google, NAVER, and wearable-related websites, this study examines smart healthcare wearable device products and outlines the types and characteristics of these products.

In the results of this study, there were a total of 51 device products from seven countries, including 24 products from the US, 14 from Korea, four from China, four from France, two from Japan, two from the UK, and one from Sweden. These ...


A Comparative Analysis On Properties Of Retroreflective Materials For Road Traffic Warning Clothing, Soonja Park, Changwoo Choi Jan 2018

A Comparative Analysis On Properties Of Retroreflective Materials For Road Traffic Warning Clothing, Soonja Park, Changwoo Choi

International Textile and Apparel Association (ITAA) Annual Conference Proceedings

In this study, the properties of retroreflective material samples are comparatively examined for the development of an ISO-compliant warning clothing with an enhanced visibility of motion and comfort for road traffic workers in Korea. The samples consisted of a plain and beads type material manufactured by 3M (US)(S1), a rectangular-patterned (S2) and plain sample (S3) that are both prism-type and manufactured by a Korean ‘R’ company, and another plain and beads type sample (S4) that was also made in Korea but without a specified manufacturer. ISO 150-J01 (1997) and ISO 20471 (2013) methods were used to measure the chromaticity ...


Unification Of Naasquuisaqs And Tl’Aakwakumlth, Denise Nicole Green Jan 2018

Unification Of Naasquuisaqs And Tl’Aakwakumlth, Denise Nicole Green

International Textile and Apparel Association (ITAA) Annual Conference Proceedings

Nuu-chah-nulth First Nations hail from the West coast of Vancouver Island and according to their traditional beliefs, have occupied these territories since time immemorial. Like other Northwest Coast indigenous peoples, Nuu-chah-nulth social organization is complex and reflected in design practice and iconography. Families own crests, which are iconographic images that represent histories, rights, and privileges. This design is as a bridal gown that was worn at a potlatch in June 2018 that marked the nuptials of two elders: Naasquuisaqs, a highly ranked Hupacasath woman, and Tl’aakwakumlth, a man from Kyuquot and Nuuchatlaht Nations who holds a Ha’wilth (chief ...


Bacterial Cellulose Yarns: Preserving Fiber Strength And Improving Performance, Dr. Jennifer Harmon Jan 2018

Bacterial Cellulose Yarns: Preserving Fiber Strength And Improving Performance, Dr. Jennifer Harmon

International Textile and Apparel Association (ITAA) Annual Conference Proceedings

Bacterial cellulose is a promising material, which has recently been gaining attention for it's potential use in apparel. This vegetable leather-like material has several promising and simultaneously limiting properties. In this research, we explored a preliminary formulation and tested the resulting bacterial cellulose yarns. Our results indicate the there is sufficient strength and extension for this material to undergo hand or low speed mechanical weaving.


New Configurations In Fashion: Innovative Forms Meet Engineered Textile Printing, Eulanda A. Sanders, Ellen Mckinney, Fatma Baytar Jan 2018

New Configurations In Fashion: Innovative Forms Meet Engineered Textile Printing, Eulanda A. Sanders, Ellen Mckinney, Fatma Baytar

International Textile and Apparel Association (ITAA) Annual Conference Proceedings

June 15 – 21, 2017 the New Configurations in Fashion: Innovative Forms Meet Engineered Textile Printing workshop was held at Iowa State University. The project was funded by a grant from the National Endowment for the Arts (NEA) and the Donna R. Danielson Professorship in Textiles and Clothing at Iowa State University. The goal of the workshop was to establish a physical space and time where participants can: (a) create innovative textile and fashion designs, (b) develop textile designs that follow the form and structure of the garments, and (c) utilize patternmaking techniques such as subtraction cutting, zero waste, three dimensional ...


It Gets Better With Age: Naturally-Dyed Hot Yoga Apparel, Denise Nicole Green Jan 2018

It Gets Better With Age: Naturally-Dyed Hot Yoga Apparel, Denise Nicole Green

International Textile and Apparel Association (ITAA) Annual Conference Proceedings

What if our active wear clothing improved with wear and with age? What if our bodies did the same? The impact of time, gravity, ultraviolet light, washing, and other forces are typically perceived as detrimental to our clothing and bodies, but this naturally-dyed yoga ensemble forces us to re-imagine the opportunities that frequent use, laundering, soiling, and consistent hot yoga practice may provide. With wear, human sweat, and washing the colors have become deeper and more robust. Rather than remaining static, this design actually gets better with age. "It Gets Better With Age" is an experiment in contact-dyeing plant matter ...


Moisture Responsiveness Of Seamless Knitted Wool Fabrics, Adriana C. Gorea, Fatma Baytar, Eulanda Sanders Jan 2018

Moisture Responsiveness Of Seamless Knitted Wool Fabrics, Adriana C. Gorea, Fatma Baytar, Eulanda Sanders

International Textile and Apparel Association (ITAA) Annual Conference Proceedings

The amount of moisture which textile fibers are capable of absorbing affects their use in activewear. By making a functional analogy to natural systems via the biomimetic framework, the aim is to develop knitted fabrics that can change shape in response to changing environmental conditions, without any other control mechanisms or energy (Fratzl & Weinkamer, 2007). Few researchers have studied the responsive behavior for fibers and textiles, specifically natural fibers in a knitted fabric (Scott, 2015). This research documents the exploration of moisture responsiveness for forty different wool based fabrics, constructed via Santoni seamless knitting technology.


Hanfu Rising: The Simulation And Evaluation Of Chinese Cultural Garments: A Multi-Dimensional Comparison Study, Bai Li, Kelly Cobb, Huantian Cao, Belinda Orzada, Ping Xiao Jan 2018

Hanfu Rising: The Simulation And Evaluation Of Chinese Cultural Garments: A Multi-Dimensional Comparison Study, Bai Li, Kelly Cobb, Huantian Cao, Belinda Orzada, Ping Xiao

International Textile and Apparel Association (ITAA) Annual Conference Proceedings

The process of apparel sampling produces a large amount of waste. Virtual prototyping is seen as beneficial in reducing impact of manufacturing waste, few studies have verified the fit, appearance and fabrication characteristics of virtually simulated multi-layered garments. The current literature into virtual prototyping typically focuses only on western garments (Morfin, 2017). The researchers determined that simulation and evaluation of cultural non-western garments would build on and contribute to existing research in this area. This study was designed to analyze the similarity of fit and appearance between physically constructed multi-layered cultural garments and those virtually constructed. Researchers created two Chinese ...


Effect Of Natural Dyeing Using Flos Sophora Japonica L. On The Uv Protection Of Cotton Fabric, Lkhagva Narantuya, Cheunsoon Ahn Jan 2018

Effect Of Natural Dyeing Using Flos Sophora Japonica L. On The Uv Protection Of Cotton Fabric, Lkhagva Narantuya, Cheunsoon Ahn

International Textile and Apparel Association (ITAA) Annual Conference Proceedings

The purpose of this research was to investigate the effect of UV protection function of cotton fabric dyed with Flos Sophora japonica L. The study also aimed to out whether the amount of rutin or quercetin fixed on the fiber through dyeing with Flos Sophora japonicaL. has effect on the degree of UV protection of the dyed cotton fabric. UV protection of dyed samples was measured using the Ultraviolet transmittance analyzer (UV-2000F, Labsphere) based on the American Society for Testing and Materials (ASTM) Test method 183. Four measurements were taken from each sample. High performance liquid chromatography-diode array detector ...


Using Thrifted Garments As A Learning Tool In An Introductory Textiles Course, Charity Armstead Jan 2018

Using Thrifted Garments As A Learning Tool In An Introductory Textiles Course, Charity Armstead

International Textile and Apparel Association (ITAA) Annual Conference Proceedings

Using thrifted garments for analysis in an introductory textiles course was designed to increase transfer of learning. Prior to the introduction of the assignment, students had difficulty transferring the information into contexts beyond lab samples provided in class. This assignment was created so students could apply course content to garments that they selected. Students were asked to purchase garments to cut up and analyze throughout the semester. At the end of the semester, each student assembled the results into a final report. Adding analysis of thrifted garments to the course gave students a real-life application for textbook concepts. The students ...


A Study On Apparel Design For Chiropractic Training, Yeon Ah Jang, Kyung Hee Hong, Jung Soon Lee, Yoon Mi Choi, Hanna Kim Jan 2018

A Study On Apparel Design For Chiropractic Training, Yeon Ah Jang, Kyung Hee Hong, Jung Soon Lee, Yoon Mi Choi, Hanna Kim

International Textile and Apparel Association (ITAA) Annual Conference Proceedings

In severe cases of spinal misalignment due to wrong back posture during adolescence or focusing on work, modern people can have back pain. Such a symptom is commonly referred to as scoliosis and it already became one of the lifestyle diseases. Hence, the purpose of the present study was to develop a functional musculoskeletal correction wear that can help with maintaining a correct posture by relaxing tonic muscles and maximizing the tension of the relaxed muscle using the principle of sports taping.

Market research for design development was conducted at department stores and specialty road shops separately. Department stores were ...


Empowering Indigenous Mexican Groups Through Fostering The Practice Of Traditional Textile Crafts, Hoshiakari Endo Portillo, Henry Navarro Jan 2018

Empowering Indigenous Mexican Groups Through Fostering The Practice Of Traditional Textile Crafts, Hoshiakari Endo Portillo, Henry Navarro

International Textile and Apparel Association (ITAA) Annual Conference Proceedings

In a world where globalization and technology are at their peak, indigenous Mexican communities are struggling between the pull of their ancestral traditions and modernity. They are caught between two antagonistic practices; those of mass produced and traditional hand-crafted textiles. This paper explores strategies to foster traditional textile crafts amongst indigenous Mexican communities with the purpose of empowering indigenous Mexican groups. The creative outcome of the research discussed in this paper is a swimwear collection created in collaboration with indigenous Mexicans artisans. Each piece not only conveys indigenous Mexican craft authentically, but through the creation process, I was able to ...


Pastoral Dreams And Quirky Goats: An Analysis Of Selling Strategies Of Fiber Farmers On Etsy, Casey R. Stannard Jan 2018

Pastoral Dreams And Quirky Goats: An Analysis Of Selling Strategies Of Fiber Farmers On Etsy, Casey R. Stannard

International Textile and Apparel Association (ITAA) Annual Conference Proceedings

Small scale fiber farming is growing as a hobby and economic activity in the United States. Small fiber farms often focus on rare or heritage breed fibers. Fiber farmers have also adopted various online platforms to sell their goods, such as Etsy. The purpose of this research was to examine the selling strategies of farmers selling fiber goods on Etsy and explore how fiber farmers characterize their farms, animals, and lifestyles. The results were also examined using the concept of nostalgia and the principles of Slow Fashion. To investigate the purpose, data were gathered from Etsy. A total of 47 ...


The Impact Of Hair On African American Women’S Collective Identity Formation, Ashley R. Garrin, Sara B. Marcketti Dec 2017

The Impact Of Hair On African American Women’S Collective Identity Formation, Ashley R. Garrin, Sara B. Marcketti

Apparel, Events and Hospitality Management Publications

The Black Pride and Power Movements of the 1960s and 1970s changed the aesthetic of the larger African American community, promoting self-affirmation and reclaiming African pride. As individuals engaged in the movement, they began to internalize new meanings and understandings of themselves, leading to self-transformation and collective identity that promoted the specific political ideology and agenda of the group. In this research, the lived experiences of African American women who were emerging adults (ages 18–25) during the Civil Rights Movement from 1960 to 1974 were examined, through in-depth interviews, to understand their experiences with wearing natural hairstyles during this ...


Numerical Simulation Of Heat Stress In Chemical Protective Clothing, Jie Yang, Guowen Song, Liwen Wang, Yun Su, Chunhui Xiang Aug 2017

Numerical Simulation Of Heat Stress In Chemical Protective Clothing, Jie Yang, Guowen Song, Liwen Wang, Yun Su, Chunhui Xiang

Apparel, Events and Hospitality Management Publications

The aim of the paper is to predict heat stress of human wearing chemical protective clothing (CPC). A proposed human thermal model was applied to simulate the core and skin temperatures with inputs of human activity level, clothing properties, and environmental conditions. Manikin tests were conducted to measure the thermal insulation and evaporative resistance of clothing which were two important inputs of the thermal model. The core temperature was predicted as an indicator of heat stress to evaluate the maximum exposure time. The effects of ambient temperature, relative humidity, and metabolic rate on core temperature, skin temperature, and maximum exposure ...


Meaning And Symbolism In Bridal Costumes In Western Saudi Arabia, Wijdan A. Tawfiq, Sara B. Marcketti Jul 2017

Meaning And Symbolism In Bridal Costumes In Western Saudi Arabia, Wijdan A. Tawfiq, Sara B. Marcketti

Apparel, Events and Hospitality Management Publications

The western region of Saudi Arabia has its own unique traditional bridal garments. Little is known about these bridal costumes because they are handmade by a few families in the region. The purpose of this study was to investigate the history, significance, and meaning of the Hijazi bridal costumes. Symbolic interactionism was the theoretical starting point of this study. Qualitative data were collected via in-depth interviews from 22 married Saudi women. A purposive, snowball sampling strategy was used. The data were analyzed using the Miles and Huberman process. Four key themes emerged including (a) physical appearance and process of wearing ...


Relationships Between Creativity And Its Antecedents Before And After Training: The Role Of Risk-Taking And Past Creative Experience, Anna Perry, Elena E. Karpova Jun 2017

Relationships Between Creativity And Its Antecedents Before And After Training: The Role Of Risk-Taking And Past Creative Experience, Anna Perry, Elena E. Karpova

Apparel, Events and Hospitality Management Publications

This research examined the effects of past creative experience and attitude toward risk-taking on creativity before and after training. College students enrolled in a creativity course participated in the study. Creativity was assessed by independent experts and self-assessed by the participants. Based on the results, an inverted U-shape relationship was proposed between (a) past creative experience and risk-taking, and (b) risk-taking and self-assessed creativity. Risk-taking was related to self-assessed creativity before and after the training, but not expert-assessed creativity. Past creative experience was not related to creativity, self and expert-assessed, before and after the training.


Effect Of Configuration Of Protective Fabrics On Thermal Protective Performance Under Steam Exposure, Yun Su, Rui Li, Guowen Song, Jun Li Jan 2017

Effect Of Configuration Of Protective Fabrics On Thermal Protective Performance Under Steam Exposure, Yun Su, Rui Li, Guowen Song, Jun Li

Apparel, Events and Hospitality Management Publications

A novel steam simulator was employed in this study to evaluate thermal protective performance of protective clothing while exposing to steam hazard. Single- and double-layer fabric systems were selected, and different configurations of moisture barrier were exposed to steam hazard for investigating the effect of configuration of protective fabrics on the thermal protective performance. The skin bio-heat transfer and Henriques burn integral models were used to predict the required times to reach 2nd and 3rd degree skin burn. The results demonstrated that the thermal protective performance of protective clothing under steam exposure was determined by the air permeability, the thickness ...


Creativity Of Images: Using Digital Consensual Assessment To Evaluate Mood Boards, Charles Freeman, Sara B. Marcketti, Elena E. Karpova Jan 2017

Creativity Of Images: Using Digital Consensual Assessment To Evaluate Mood Boards, Charles Freeman, Sara B. Marcketti, Elena E. Karpova

Apparel, Events and Hospitality Management Publications

Mood boards are used frequently in design and product development as well as in academic courses related to fashion design. However objectively evaluating the creativity of fashion design mood boards is often difficult. Therefore, the purpose of this investigation is to examine reliability of a digital consensual assessment instrument measuring creativity, using expert (from related domains) and non-expert raters (students). Creativity measures were compared with the mood board themes to further investigate any relationships between mood board types and the consensual assessment. Independent samples t test comparing group means indicated expert raters evaluated the mood boards significantly higher in creativity ...