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The Role Of Nostalgia In Retro Sewing, Charity S. Armstead, Ellen C. Mckinney Dec 2019

The Role Of Nostalgia In Retro Sewing, Charity S. Armstead, Ellen C. Mckinney

Apparel, Events and Hospitality Management Publications

This article explores the role of nostalgia as a motivation for retro sewing and the ways in which nostalgia shapes the practices of retro sewing. Retro sewers circumvent typical models of clothing consumption by opting out of the commercial fashion cycle, and instead creating clothing for everyday use that replicates or is inspired by styles from the past. As such, the practice of retro sewing is inextricably linked to one or more of the many forms of nostalgia. Previous studies on consumers and nostalgia have not considered the full breadth of how consumers interact with nostalgia. This article explains what ...


Why Do They Sew? Women’S Motivations To Sew Clothing For Themselves, Addie Martindale, Ellen C. Mckinney Aug 2019

Why Do They Sew? Women’S Motivations To Sew Clothing For Themselves, Addie Martindale, Ellen C. Mckinney

Apparel, Events and Hospitality Management Publications

Garment sewing is undergoing a resurgence in participation, with a growing number of women choosing to sew their clothing instead of buying readily available fast fashion. The purpose of this qualitative study was to understand the current motivations of an ethnically diverse sample of women who sew garments for themselves. The in-depth interview data from 15 interviews revealed personal fulfillment to be the overarching reason for participation. Personal fulfillment was achieved through main emergent themes of investment, control, and empowerment with 10 subthemes. Theoretical perspectives of prosumerism, craft and do-it-yourself consumption, and uses and gratification theory were applied to the ...


Effect Of Fabric Deformation On Thermal Protective Performance Of Clothing In A Cylindrical Configuration, Yun Su, Rui Li, Jie Yang, Guowen Song, Chunhui Xiang, Jun Li Jan 2019

Effect Of Fabric Deformation On Thermal Protective Performance Of Clothing In A Cylindrical Configuration, Yun Su, Rui Li, Jie Yang, Guowen Song, Chunhui Xiang, Jun Li

Apparel, Events and Hospitality Management Publications

Firefighting protective clothing is designed to provide thermal protection for firefighters in fire extinguishing or rescuing operations. However, fabric deformation and stretching due to body movement and different postures could change the clothing's thermal protective performance. Current gaps in our knowledge with regard to fabric deformation often resulted in biased predictions of the thermal protective level that personal protective equipment (PPE) can provide, highlighting the need to improve our understanding in this field. In this study, we developed a device that can be connected to a cylindrical copper calorimeter to simulate fabric deformation due to body movement and different ...


Brew Culture, Kaiyue Yang Jan 2019

Brew Culture, Kaiyue Yang

Creative Components

No abstract provided.


Review Of Fashion, Technology And Health: Future Directions For The Apparel Industry, Rachel J. Eike, Sonia Bakhshian Oct 2018

Review Of Fashion, Technology And Health: Future Directions For The Apparel Industry, Rachel J. Eike, Sonia Bakhshian

Apparel, Events and Hospitality Management Publications

This review briefly analyzes fashion, technology, and health-related observations in industries to make suggestions for the future direction of growth for apparel and product development. This article highlights technology-embedded apparel and textile products currently presented in the market or made known via web promotion or conference exhibition. Many of these textile products are primarily associated with health care and fitness-related intentions - showing support and direction of health and technology for a future scope in fashion and apparel industries. The objective of this review was to identify challenges associated with ‘smart’ textile production, reference examples of technology integration in textile-based wearables ...


Development Of A Numerical Model To Predict Physiological Strain Of Firefighter In Fire Hazard, Yun Su, Jie Yang, Guowen Song, Rui Li, Chunhui Xiang, Jun Li Feb 2018

Development Of A Numerical Model To Predict Physiological Strain Of Firefighter In Fire Hazard, Yun Su, Jie Yang, Guowen Song, Rui Li, Chunhui Xiang, Jun Li

Apparel, Events and Hospitality Management Publications

This paper aims to develop a numerical model to predict heat stress of frefghter under low-level thermal radiation. The model integrated a modifed multi-layer clothing model with a human thermoregulation model. We took the coupled radiative and conductive heat transfer in the clothing, the size-dependent heat transfer in the air gaps, and the controlling active and controlled passive thermal regulation in human body into consideration. The predicted core temperature and mean skin temperature from the model showed a good agreement with the experimental results. Parametric study was conducted and the result demonstrated that the radiative intensity had a signifcant infuence ...


Coming To Our Senses: The 21st Century Tactile, Kelly Cobb, Belinda Orzada Phd Jan 2018

Coming To Our Senses: The 21st Century Tactile, Kelly Cobb, Belinda Orzada Phd

International Textile and Apparel Association (ITAA) Annual Conference Proceedings

As a culture, we are experiencing a cultural shift towards the textile and its cultural expression, marked by renewed interest in material processes and an urgency to understand what products are made of. Companies are reintroducing arts and crafts and the recycling of scraps to not let anything go to waste (Edelkoort, 2016). Brands are increasingly turning to novel and innovative textiles to set them apart (Johnson, 2015). The loss of touch is a grand challenge (grand phenomena) requiring action and knowledge sharing.


“I Knew The Mechanics Of Hip”: Fashioning Bodies In The Works Of Joni Mitchell, 1968 - 1979, Denise Nicole Green, Susan B. Kaiser, Kyra Streck, Kelsie Nicole Doty Jan 2018

“I Knew The Mechanics Of Hip”: Fashioning Bodies In The Works Of Joni Mitchell, 1968 - 1979, Denise Nicole Green, Susan B. Kaiser, Kyra Streck, Kelsie Nicole Doty

International Textile and Apparel Association (ITAA) Annual Conference Proceedings

Since the late 1960s, Joni Mitchell has been best known for her remarkable music: her voice, compelling lyrics, and unusual guitar tunings, all of which have conveyed sentiments of her generation and have remained relevant to later generations. Although her lyrics and album covers are replete with references to fashion, textiles, dress, and appearance, they have not been critically analyzed in relation to her status as a cultural icon. The fashion industry is clearly aware of this status, as evidenced, for example, by her inclusion in a 2015 Yves St. Laurent campaign. In our study, we ask: (1) What does ...


“Adapting Lindqvist’S Kinetic Garment Method For An Upcycled, Zero-Waste Childrenswear Romper”, April Elisha Stanley, Ellen C. Mckinney Jan 2018

“Adapting Lindqvist’S Kinetic Garment Method For An Upcycled, Zero-Waste Childrenswear Romper”, April Elisha Stanley, Ellen C. Mckinney

International Textile and Apparel Association (ITAA) Annual Conference Proceedings

A current upcycling trend is creating little girls' garments from menswear, exemplifying some tenets of sustainability. The purpose was to research methods for creating a sustainable little girls’ garment by upcycling menswear, which revealed a gap in the market for bifurcated, zero-waste designs. This design focused on specific elements of sustainability to increase useful lifespan: zero-waste and garment adjustability. Lindqvist’s (2013) experimental patternmaking technique, kinetic garment construction, was chosen for experimentation in conjunction with upcycled textiles to test adaptability for creating upcycled, zero-waste garments. Adapting Lindqvist’s (2013) method of kinetic garment construction by using the original technique along ...


“Implementing An Upcycled/Redesign Project In A Dress Theory Course”, April Elisha Stanley Jan 2018

“Implementing An Upcycled/Redesign Project In A Dress Theory Course”, April Elisha Stanley

International Textile and Apparel Association (ITAA) Annual Conference Proceedings

In an undergraduate dress theory course, the expectations were that a new project could address existing gaps: (a) students were interested in sewing but the program was merchandising-based only, (b) previously, dress meanings and motivations were not highly emphasized in the course in spite of their importance to understanding dress practices (Lennon, Johnson, & Rudd, 2017), and (c) past students demonstrated little to no knowledge about sustainability practices for garment design, particularly the textile waste problem in the industry where materials can be reused to construct new products (e.g., Hawley, 2008). A new project was implemented for the course to ...


New Configurations In Fashion: Innovative Forms Meet Engineered Textile Printing, Eulanda A. Sanders, Ellen Mckinney, Fatma Baytar Jan 2018

New Configurations In Fashion: Innovative Forms Meet Engineered Textile Printing, Eulanda A. Sanders, Ellen Mckinney, Fatma Baytar

International Textile and Apparel Association (ITAA) Annual Conference Proceedings

June 15 – 21, 2017 the New Configurations in Fashion: Innovative Forms Meet Engineered Textile Printing workshop was held at Iowa State University. The project was funded by a grant from the National Endowment for the Arts (NEA) and the Donna R. Danielson Professorship in Textiles and Clothing at Iowa State University. The goal of the workshop was to establish a physical space and time where participants can: (a) create innovative textile and fashion designs, (b) develop textile designs that follow the form and structure of the garments, and (c) utilize patternmaking techniques such as subtraction cutting, zero waste, three dimensional ...


Using Thrifted Garments As A Learning Tool In An Introductory Textiles Course, Charity Armstead Jan 2018

Using Thrifted Garments As A Learning Tool In An Introductory Textiles Course, Charity Armstead

International Textile and Apparel Association (ITAA) Annual Conference Proceedings

Using thrifted garments for analysis in an introductory textiles course was designed to increase transfer of learning. Prior to the introduction of the assignment, students had difficulty transferring the information into contexts beyond lab samples provided in class. This assignment was created so students could apply course content to garments that they selected. Students were asked to purchase garments to cut up and analyze throughout the semester. At the end of the semester, each student assembled the results into a final report. Adding analysis of thrifted garments to the course gave students a real-life application for textbook concepts. The students ...


Wakanda: A Visual Study In Structural And Surface Textile Design Via The Black Panther Movie, Eulanda A. Sanders Jan 2018

Wakanda: A Visual Study In Structural And Surface Textile Design Via The Black Panther Movie, Eulanda A. Sanders

International Textile and Apparel Association (ITAA) Annual Conference Proceedings

The phenomenon of The Black Panther, the movie, the first 2018 release of the Marvel Comics cinematic franchise, has grossed $631 million as of March 25th, 2018 (Rubin, 2018). The movie, branded as a cultural phenomenon, creating a sense of pride among Black people globally, is also a visual feast for textile artists and designers. Throughout the move, the characters are swathed in a variety of textiles created via various structural and surface textile design techniques. The costume design team, led by Ruth E. Carter, not only created a visual menagerie of apparel that harkened back to textile techniques ...


Teaching The Next Generation Of Technical Designers About Cotton Performance Technologies Through A Problem-Based Learning Project, Kristen D. Morris Jan 2018

Teaching The Next Generation Of Technical Designers About Cotton Performance Technologies Through A Problem-Based Learning Project, Kristen D. Morris

International Textile and Apparel Association (ITAA) Annual Conference Proceedings

The purpose of this project was to increase students' awareness of advancements by Cotton, Inc. to enhance the functional properties of cotton. In teams of two, students in a technical design course worked on a semester-long project that involved developing an innovative performance apparel ensemble for an underserved market using technologically enhanced cotton fabrics. Students created technical packages for each garment and submitted a comprehensive report documenting the entire design process and outcomes. Fabric and support was provided by Cotton, Inc.. The class was framed by a Problem-Based Learning (PBL) approach in which the students learned about cotton through the ...


Bacterial Cellulose Yarns: Preserving Fiber Strength And Improving Performance, Dr. Jennifer Harmon Jan 2018

Bacterial Cellulose Yarns: Preserving Fiber Strength And Improving Performance, Dr. Jennifer Harmon

International Textile and Apparel Association (ITAA) Annual Conference Proceedings

Bacterial cellulose is a promising material, which has recently been gaining attention for it's potential use in apparel. This vegetable leather-like material has several promising and simultaneously limiting properties. In this research, we explored a preliminary formulation and tested the resulting bacterial cellulose yarns. Our results indicate the there is sufficient strength and extension for this material to undergo hand or low speed mechanical weaving.


Empowering Indigenous Mexican Groups Through Fostering The Practice Of Traditional Textile Crafts, Hoshiakari Endo Portillo, Henry Navarro Jan 2018

Empowering Indigenous Mexican Groups Through Fostering The Practice Of Traditional Textile Crafts, Hoshiakari Endo Portillo, Henry Navarro

International Textile and Apparel Association (ITAA) Annual Conference Proceedings

In a world where globalization and technology are at their peak, indigenous Mexican communities are struggling between the pull of their ancestral traditions and modernity. They are caught between two antagonistic practices; those of mass produced and traditional hand-crafted textiles. This paper explores strategies to foster traditional textile crafts amongst indigenous Mexican communities with the purpose of empowering indigenous Mexican groups. The creative outcome of the research discussed in this paper is a swimwear collection created in collaboration with indigenous Mexicans artisans. Each piece not only conveys indigenous Mexican craft authentically, but through the creation process, I was able to ...


Kuroguro Presence: A Conceptual Design Collaboration, Adriana C. Gorea, Jeffrey Mayer, Todd Conover Jan 2018

Kuroguro Presence: A Conceptual Design Collaboration, Adriana C. Gorea, Jeffrey Mayer, Todd Conover

International Textile and Apparel Association (ITAA) Annual Conference Proceedings

This case study explored how a team of three fashion design instructors and practitioners developed a collaborative conceptual design, aiming to improve their teaching methods and upskill their craft via learnings from their own social interactive practice.


Moisture Responsiveness Of Seamless Knitted Wool Fabrics, Adriana C. Gorea, Fatma Baytar, Eulanda Sanders Jan 2018

Moisture Responsiveness Of Seamless Knitted Wool Fabrics, Adriana C. Gorea, Fatma Baytar, Eulanda Sanders

International Textile and Apparel Association (ITAA) Annual Conference Proceedings

The amount of moisture which textile fibers are capable of absorbing affects their use in activewear. By making a functional analogy to natural systems via the biomimetic framework, the aim is to develop knitted fabrics that can change shape in response to changing environmental conditions, without any other control mechanisms or energy (Fratzl & Weinkamer, 2007). Few researchers have studied the responsive behavior for fibers and textiles, specifically natural fibers in a knitted fabric (Scott, 2015). This research documents the exploration of moisture responsiveness for forty different wool based fabrics, constructed via Santoni seamless knitting technology.


Seamless Knitted Sports Bra Design: A Responsive System Design Exploration, Adriana C. Gorea, Fatma Baytar, Eulanda Sanders Jan 2018

Seamless Knitted Sports Bra Design: A Responsive System Design Exploration, Adriana C. Gorea, Fatma Baytar, Eulanda Sanders

International Textile and Apparel Association (ITAA) Annual Conference Proceedings

The transition of sports bras’ uses, from an active lifestyle to resting activities, requires adaptable comfort properties of the design (Quinn, 2010). In the current age of technological revolution, the sports bra industry is still not offering an adaptable and responsive sports bra, which supports the body during high impact sports while feeling soft and comfortable during rest (Hansman, 2017). Moreover, the current commercial sports bras are made using all synthetic yarns and using garment dyeing processes that are not ecological sustainable (McCann, 2005).Thus, the two-fold purpose of this study was to: (a) analyze the materials and processes used ...


Engaging Students In The Grading Process, Semra -. Peksoz Jan 2018

Engaging Students In The Grading Process, Semra -. Peksoz

International Textile and Apparel Association (ITAA) Annual Conference Proceedings

Evaluating student work, using detailed rubrics and feedback are important teaching tools. However, percentage of students who have little patience in reading the feedback and learning from their mistakes is increasing. The method introduced here hopes to increase this percentage by actively engaging students in evaluating their own work based on the provided feedback and the rubric provided by the instructor.


Warmsie Onesie – Thermal Protection For Peruvian Infants, Belinda Orzada, Patience Ankomah, Sheiron Crawford, Chacha Hudson, Leah Jackson, Stephanie Joseph, Kelsey Kosinski, Ashley Paintsil, Cheyenne Smith, Natalie Dipopolo Jan 2018

Warmsie Onesie – Thermal Protection For Peruvian Infants, Belinda Orzada, Patience Ankomah, Sheiron Crawford, Chacha Hudson, Leah Jackson, Stephanie Joseph, Kelsey Kosinski, Ashley Paintsil, Cheyenne Smith, Natalie Dipopolo

International Textile and Apparel Association (ITAA) Annual Conference Proceedings

Infant mortality rates due to hypothermia are extremely high in the Q’eros nation of Peru. The purpose of this design research was to develop a garment/wrapping system that will help the infants maintain adequate body temperature to prevent cold related illness/death and at the same time be compatible with Q’eros cultural traditions.


Commercialization Of Adaptive Clothing: Toward A Movement Of Inclusive Design, Kelsey Kosinski, Belinda Orzada, Hye-Shin Kim Jan 2018

Commercialization Of Adaptive Clothing: Toward A Movement Of Inclusive Design, Kelsey Kosinski, Belinda Orzada, Hye-Shin Kim

International Textile and Apparel Association (ITAA) Annual Conference Proceedings

An analysis of the evolution of adaptive clothing was conducted through a review of relevant literature published from 1963 to 2017. The goal should be to create ready-to-wear clothing with adaptive features, thus helping individuals with disabilities to address their functional, expressive and aesthetic needs, while also eliminating the stigma of adaptive clothing. In order to reduce the stigma of adaptive clothing, while also enhancing the quality of life for people with disabilities, a change in the fashion industry must happen. Future designers need to be prepared for a market that encompasses all body types, not just the “normal” body ...


Design For A Wasp-Loving Entomologist. Using Digital Printing And Creative Pattern Cutting To Create An Ensemble To Reflect One’S Research Interests, Ellen Mckinney, Fatma Baytar Jan 2018

Design For A Wasp-Loving Entomologist. Using Digital Printing And Creative Pattern Cutting To Create An Ensemble To Reflect One’S Research Interests, Ellen Mckinney, Fatma Baytar

International Textile and Apparel Association (ITAA) Annual Conference Proceedings

The purpose of this ensemble was to celebrate the beautiful home and industrious nature of Dolichovespula maculata, a type of wasp colloquially known as the baldfaced hornet. (Figure 1). The ensemble was designed for a university professor who studies this wasp to wear to an entomology conference. Entomology academics commonly enjoy wearing apparel and accessories made of materials from or referencing the insects they study to academic conferences (See social media hashtag #entofashion.). The digital printing and subtraction cutting techniques worked together to accomplish the goal of creating a special ensemble for an entomologist to better reflect her research interests ...


Morning Glory, Hyunsoo Kim Jan 2018

Morning Glory, Hyunsoo Kim

International Textile and Apparel Association (ITAA) Annual Conference Proceedings

The design challenge for this three dimensional art wear, Morning Glory is to create a transformative garment inspired by biomimicry. Morning Glory is applying two levels of biomimicry through textile innovation: not only has it mimics form and shape, also imitates movement- bloom and wilt.


Assembling Creativity, Krissi Riewe Jan 2018

Assembling Creativity, Krissi Riewe

International Textile and Apparel Association (ITAA) Annual Conference Proceedings

Much literature on fashion design today centers around sustainable, ethical making processes or advances in the use of digital technologies. As a graduate student, I want to address both through the use of playful, open-minded process and material exploration. With access to both traditional fashion design and new digital fabrication tools, I utilized both in the process of combining gifted, reclaimed, 3D printed, and found materials. The making process was intuitive, with the design process being informed and developed though open-minded interaction with materials and processes.


Denim Lace, Krissi Riewe Jan 2018

Denim Lace, Krissi Riewe

International Textile and Apparel Association (ITAA) Annual Conference Proceedings

This work explores the intersections of digital technologies with traditional methods of making garments. Incorporating digital technology, I can push beyond the boundaries of what my manual skills alone can do, and by using both traditional and innovative methods I can develop processes and methods specific to my work. Here, denim is transformed through both patternwork and the laser cutter in a harmonious process.


Plastic Soup, Addie Martindale Jan 2018

Plastic Soup, Addie Martindale

International Textile and Apparel Association (ITAA) Annual Conference Proceedings

The purpose of this design activism artwear was to create a visual representation of the environmental impact that plastic has on the ocean and aims to create a conversation about the seriousness of the issue. The cradle to cradle tenet of waste equals food (McDonough & Braungart, 2002) was used as a framework for the design and sourcing of materials. An exploration of free-form embroidery fabric collage was used to create the texture which is the design emphasis of the piece.


Unbalanced Contrast, Se Jung Oh, May Chae Jan 2018

Unbalanced Contrast, Se Jung Oh, May Chae

International Textile and Apparel Association (ITAA) Annual Conference Proceedings

The purpose of this project was to create a unique ready-to-wear style for professional working women. I desired to make a two-piece jacket and skirt reinventing the tartan kilt as a new key design element for women’s ready-to-wear that could be appealing to various professional working women regardless of age and race. Principles of design such as harmony, balance, proportion, emphasis, similarity, and contrast have been incorporated in an unconventional way. Various sizes of knife pleats were created using the tartan fabric and partially attached to the collar, sleeve, and bodies of the jacket, skirt, and pocket flap. This ...


The Power Suit: Sustainable And Stylish, An Empowering Eco-Pioneer, Anupama Pasricha Jan 2018

The Power Suit: Sustainable And Stylish, An Empowering Eco-Pioneer, Anupama Pasricha

International Textile and Apparel Association (ITAA) Annual Conference Proceedings

The Power Suit is an eco-pioneer and a visual representation of empowerment and style. Made for diverse women who value individuality, the environment, and well-being, this suit is made from light blue Global Organic Standard (GOTS) certified 100% organic cotton chambray and underlined by white GOTS certified 100% organic cotton cambric. The underlining is used to support the fabric and to avoid the use of fusible interfacing, except for the facing and upper collar. The suit is lined with charmeuse made from 70% hemp and 30% silk. The key design elements--detachable ikat epaulets, hand-embroidered saddle stitch detail on welts, exposed ...


Tri-Axis, Kim Hahn Jan 2018

Tri-Axis, Kim Hahn

International Textile and Apparel Association (ITAA) Annual Conference Proceedings

The purpose of this design was to create digitally printed woven textile fabric strips by exploring triaxial weaving combined with sustainable design practice, upcycling.