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Fiber, Textile, and Weaving Arts

2016

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Articles 1 - 30 of 139

Full-Text Articles in Art and Design

Examination Of Two Decades In Used Clothing Trade: The Case Of The United States And Selected Developed Economies, Youngji Lee, Ling Zhang, Elena E. Karpova Dec 2016

Examination Of Two Decades In Used Clothing Trade: The Case Of The United States And Selected Developed Economies, Youngji Lee, Ling Zhang, Elena E. Karpova

Apparel, Events and Hospitality Management Publications

This research examined two decades of the U.S. used clothing exports to the world. All countries (209) were classified into four groups based on the level of economic development. Between 1996 and 2012, U.S. used clothing exports shifted away from low-income economies to high-income economies. For the first time, our research demonstrated that the majority of used clothing discarded by American consumers is exported to high-income economies instead of poorest nations of the world. Next, used clothing exports and imports by volume and value in seven high-income countries were analyzed. The high-income countries not only exported but also ...


Matching Sourcing Destination With Fashion Brands’ Business Model: Comparative Advantages Of Bangladesh And Vietnam Apparel Industries, Bertha Jacobs, Leslie H. Simpson, Sara O. Nelson, Elena E. Karpova Dec 2016

Matching Sourcing Destination With Fashion Brands’ Business Model: Comparative Advantages Of Bangladesh And Vietnam Apparel Industries, Bertha Jacobs, Leslie H. Simpson, Sara O. Nelson, Elena E. Karpova

Apparel, Events and Hospitality Management Publications

This study investigated the comparative advantages of the Bangladeshi and Vietnamese apparel industries using Global Value Chain (GVC) framework. In this study, the GVC framework was expanded to include social and environmental sustainability issues. Secondary data, for the 2012 - 2013 period, were collected and analyzed for each component of the apparel GVC. The findings indicated that while both countries have unique comparative advantages, Vietnam clearly emerged as a leader on many GVC components. Bangladesh’s comparative advantage lies in lower wages, producing high volume orders, and lean manufacturing. In spite of Vietnam’s higher labor costs, it has comparative advantages ...


The Handweavers Of Modern-Day Southern Appalachia: An Ethnographic Case Study, Cathryn F. Washell Dec 2016

The Handweavers Of Modern-Day Southern Appalachia: An Ethnographic Case Study, Cathryn F. Washell

Electronic Theses and Dissertations

One of the most prominent traditions associated with the Southern Appalachians is the art of weaving. Extensive research has focused on the history of Appalachian weaving, but there is little on the current weaving community. Today, the region still serves as an axis for weaving, and many practicing weavers, weaving instructors, and learning institutions can be found in Southern Appalachia. The core of this study is the interviews with ten weavers that reside and practice their work in Appalachia. Using concept coding, the transcripts of the interviews led to the development of four major themes that highlight the weavers’ discovery ...


Tapestry, Alana Medina Dec 2016

Tapestry, Alana Medina

CGU MFA Theses

The wall pieces are intentionally left to be crude, unrefined, and raw. A look at the world with a border, walking backwards to a beginning, what it was like before the traffic of the mind. Itinerant qualities along with an objective dissidence bring about an experience of tribal nomadic earthy hues. The paintings stay close to my interpretation of the earth, similar to the sculptures. Like twins born in the same embrace with contemporaneous qualities they exist together with a connection in materiality. There is a relationship between my paintings and sculptures; a mutual dependence seen and experienced together that ...


French Women In Art: Reclaiming The Body Through Creation/Les Femmes Artistes Françaises : La Réclamation Du Corps À Travers La Création, Liatris Hethcoat Dec 2016

French Women In Art: Reclaiming The Body Through Creation/Les Femmes Artistes Françaises : La Réclamation Du Corps À Travers La Création, Liatris Hethcoat

Student Scholar Symposium Abstracts and Posters

The research I have conducted for my French Major Senior Thesis is a culmination of my passion for and studies of both French language and culture and the history and practice of Visual Arts. I have examined, across the history of art, the representation of women, and concluded that until the 20th century, these representations have been tools employed by the makers of history and those at the top of the patriarchal system, used to control women’s images and thus women themselves. I survey these representations, which are largely created by men—until the 20th century. I ...


Cows - Clean Ocean Wave Sculpture, Kim Bernard Dec 2016

Cows - Clean Ocean Wave Sculpture, Kim Bernard

Artist in Residence: Kim Bernard

Description and images from Kim Bernard's University of New England Artist in Residence fall semester 2016 culminating project. Kim worked with UNE students and faculty to gather ocean debris and weave it into a permanent art installment at UNE's Arthur P. Girard Marine Science Center.


Style Migrations: South-South Networks Of African Fashion, Victoria L. Rovine Nov 2016

Style Migrations: South-South Networks Of African Fashion, Victoria L. Rovine

Artl@s Bulletin

Fashion design from Africa and by African designers provides a rich source of information about south-south networks of influence and inspiration. Using several case studies, this article explores the products of cultural interactions between Africa and other world regions, and between cultures within Africa, to illuminate south-south networks of innovation. Case studies include the work of Sakina M’Sa, Maimouna Diallo, and the distinctive embroidery of northern Mali known as “Ghana Boy” style.


Evaluating Thermal Comfort Of Sweat-Management Fabrics For Sportswear, Su Kyoung An, Seung Bong Ko, Hae Jin Gam Nov 2016

Evaluating Thermal Comfort Of Sweat-Management Fabrics For Sportswear, Su Kyoung An, Seung Bong Ko, Hae Jin Gam

International Textile and Apparel Association (ITAA) Annual Conference Proceedings

Exercise and fitness are essential elements of health and well-being. With increased attention to living a healthy lifestyle, people tend to allocate more time to exercise and are participating in sport and leisure activities more often. To accommodate people's desire to be kept dry, comfortable, and moving freely, while enhancing athletic performance, the production of sweat-management fabricated (SMF) apparels have accelerated (Davis & Bishop, 2013). Numerous manufacturers and retailers have paid attention and developed lines of fabrics used to make shorts, shirts, socks, pants and more. Despite these trends, research related to the thermal comfort of SMF apparels, especially determining ...


Influence Of Electrospun Morphology On Superhydrophobicity, Yue Yuan, Seong-O Choi, Jooyoun Kim Nov 2016

Influence Of Electrospun Morphology On Superhydrophobicity, Yue Yuan, Seong-O Choi, Jooyoun Kim

International Textile and Apparel Association (ITAA) Annual Conference Proceedings

Superhydrophobic surface have drawn considerable attention due to its applicability to protective and self-cleaning textiles. Generally, creating fine roughness on hydrophobic materials is an effective way of fabricating repellent surfaces. The purpose of this study is to investigate the influence of surface morphology and surface energy on the repellency (or wettability). To this end, PS nanowebs in various fiber morphologies were fabricated by varying the electrospinning conditions. Electrospinning with the varied polymer concentration and solvent mixture generated different surface morphologies, such as beads, wrinkles, and smooth fibers. A smooth PS film showed CA of 95Ëš; compared to the film's ...


Effectiveness Of Electrical Heating For Improved Thermal Insulation Of A Multi-Layered Winter Clothing System, Huiju Park, Soo-Kyung Hwang, Joo-Young Lee, Jintu Fan, Youngjin Jeong Nov 2016

Effectiveness Of Electrical Heating For Improved Thermal Insulation Of A Multi-Layered Winter Clothing System, Huiju Park, Soo-Kyung Hwang, Joo-Young Lee, Jintu Fan, Youngjin Jeong

International Textile and Apparel Association (ITAA) Annual Conference Proceedings

This paper investigated the impact of the distance of the heating unit from the body in a multi-layered winter clothing system on effective thermal insulation and heating efficiency. To identify changes in the thermal insulation and heating efficiency of electrical heating in different layers inside a winter clothing ensemble, a series of thermal manikin tests was conducted. A multi-layered winter ensemble with and without activation of a heating unit was tested on the thermal manikin under two different ambient temperature conditions (10°C and 5°C). Results show that the effective thermal insulation of test ensembles increased by 5-7 percent ...


Investigation Of Sumac (Rhus Glabra L.) Leaves As A Natural Mordant On The Colorfastness Of Laundering For Weld-Dyed Cotton Batiste., Sarif Ullah Patwary, Sherry Haar Nov 2016

Investigation Of Sumac (Rhus Glabra L.) Leaves As A Natural Mordant On The Colorfastness Of Laundering For Weld-Dyed Cotton Batiste., Sarif Ullah Patwary, Sherry Haar

International Textile and Apparel Association (ITAA) Annual Conference Proceedings

Three mordant treatments: 1) sumac leaves at 50%, 100%, 150%, and 200% owf, 2) combination of sumac leaves at 50%, 100%, 150%, and 200% owf and Aluminum Acetate at 5% owf, and 3) aluminum acetate at 5% owf on cotton batiste samples were investigated. Color coordinates and Gray Scale ratings were taken with a RM200QC Imagining Spectrocolorimeter. The resulting data was analyzed using descriptive statistics and ANOVA within and across treatments. Results indicate that increasing the amount of sumac does not change color coordinates and overall color difference significantly. Sumac in combination with alum increased grey scale rating by one ...


Comparison Of Odor Intensity Between Nylon And Polyester, Mohammed Abdul-Bari, Rachel Mcqueen Nov 2016

Comparison Of Odor Intensity Between Nylon And Polyester, Mohammed Abdul-Bari, Rachel Mcqueen

International Textile and Apparel Association (ITAA) Annual Conference Proceedings

The purpose of this study was to compare fabrics made from nylon and polyester fibers in odor intensity following wear against the underarm. Fabrics were sewn into the underarm region of a t-shirt and odor intensity was assessed using a trained sensory panel. Results showed that nylon and polyester fabrics did not tend to differ significantly from one another. This finding was unexpected given nylon is more hydrophilic than polyester and previous research has found an inverse relationship between moisture regain and odor intensity when comparing polyester with fabrics made from natural fibers. The lack of a difference may be ...


Improving Properties Of Bacterial Cellulose By Incorporating Bio-Based Films, Armine Ghalachyan, Young-A Lee, Changhyun Nam Nov 2016

Improving Properties Of Bacterial Cellulose By Incorporating Bio-Based Films, Armine Ghalachyan, Young-A Lee, Changhyun Nam

International Textile and Apparel Association (ITAA) Annual Conference Proceedings

Bacterial cellulose (BC) has been proposed as a novel renewable material for sustainable apparel. However, properties of the current BC material are not fully suitable for apparel products. With the purpose of reducing BC's moisture absorbency, this study aimed to experiment a method of modifying BC by incorporating commercially available bio-based sustainable films during its growing process. Five film samples were placed on the surface of the tea medium prepared for BC growth that were left to grow for three weeks in a static condition. The experimental results showed that the selected films could not be incorporated with BC ...


Embroidery And Beading Design For Fashion, Theresa Alexander Nov 2016

Embroidery And Beading Design For Fashion, Theresa Alexander

International Textile and Apparel Association (ITAA) Annual Conference Proceedings

This class will focus on designing for hand embroidery and adapting methods to machine embroidery and other surface techniques. The topics will include how to use certain embroidery techniques in designing, how to chart and communicate embroidery designs, and how to estimate costs among other subjects.


Functional Design Of Structural Firefighter Clothing Systems For Improved Comfort, Meredith Mcquerry, Roger Barker, Emiel Denhartog Nov 2016

Functional Design Of Structural Firefighter Clothing Systems For Improved Comfort, Meredith Mcquerry, Roger Barker, Emiel Denhartog

International Textile and Apparel Association (ITAA) Annual Conference Proceedings

Over 50% of firefighter injuries and fatalities are due to heat exhaustion. To reduce incidents of heat strain and improve the comfort of structural firefighter turnout suits, the functional design process was used. Specifically, such tools as an interaction matrix and digital logic decision making tables further informed the incorporation of multiple design specifications for improved functionality. Design modifications explored included clothing ventilation, systems modularity, strategic layer reductions, and air gap volume analysis (using 3D body scanning). Full garment prototypes were developed and evaluated for manikin total heat loss (THL) according to ASTM F 1291 and 2370. Physiological responses were ...


Profiling And Segmentation Of International Tourists In India, Nripendra Singh, Kathleen A. Krentler, Sunaina Ahuja Nov 2016

Profiling And Segmentation Of International Tourists In India, Nripendra Singh, Kathleen A. Krentler, Sunaina Ahuja

Apparel, Events and Hospitality Management Publications

Understanding visitors and the factors that pull them to visit a destination is imperative for successful branding as visitor characteristics and salient attributes are used to differentiate and position. This study identifies important attributes and segments of international tourists visiting India. Factor and Cluster analyses were used to analyse the data. Factor analysis identified six underlying dimensions while Cluster analysis identified four segments of international tourists across four continents. Profiling of clusters was done through Chi Square analysis leading to identification of target segments. Suggestions for branding and marketing strategies are provided according to the factors and segments identified.


Fit To Be Tied Oct 2016

Fit To Be Tied

SIGNED: The Magazine of The Hong Kong Design Institute

In conjunction with the 8th International Shibori Symposium, HKDI presented The Animal Fiber: Art Informs Shibori from 13 December 2011 to 14 January 2012, revealing how an ancient technique has grown into an art form revered by couturiers and a medium of experimentation loved by children of all ages.


Material Innovation Oct 2016

Material Innovation

SIGNED: The Magazine of The Hong Kong Design Institute

Science and design have never been closer, with innovative textiles and other materials changing the way we think about garments and fashion.


Waste Management And Upcycling, Katarina Brieditis, Katarina Evans Oct 2016

Waste Management And Upcycling, Katarina Brieditis, Katarina Evans

SIGNED: The Magazine of The Hong Kong Design Institute

All material is good material, you only need to create ways to use it. Re Rag Rug started as an experimental design project to explore the social and ecological factors of turning waste material into rugs…


Creating Narratives Through Art As Self-Definition For Black Women, Shannon Snelgrove, Laura Gardner Ph.D. Oct 2016

Creating Narratives Through Art As Self-Definition For Black Women, Shannon Snelgrove, Laura Gardner Ph.D.

The Winthrop McNair Research Bulletin

The purpose of this study was to examine ways in which Black female artists have created narratives through art as self-definition. These artists have responded to stereotypical stories and images of Black women by creating self-defined stories and images. This study specifically focused on Faith Ringgold because she has combined narrative and visual art in story quilts that present Black women as empowered, multidimensional people. Her story quilt Who’s Afraid of Aunt Jemima reclaims the narrative of the stereotypical Black mammy character, Jemima. Ringgold depicts Jemima as a liberated, dynamic entrepreneur and family woman. In creating positive characterizations of ...


Magic Carpets Oct 2016

Magic Carpets

SIGNED: The Magazine of The Hong Kong Design Institute

Two designers have harnessed creativity and innovation to recreate and invigorate a traditional Swedish handicraft using recycled materials. As Libby Zeng reports their goal is to persuade the whole world to embrace sustainable design.


Shidal, Denise (Fa 995), Manuscripts & Folklife Archives Oct 2016

Shidal, Denise (Fa 995), Manuscripts & Folklife Archives

FA Finding Aids

Finding aid only for Folklife Archives Project 995. Project titled: “Quilting.” Includes survey sheets with brief descriptions of quilting methods and patterns in Shelby County, Kentucky. Sheets include a brief description, informant’s name, terms, and a photo of the quilt.


Talley, Martha (Fa 998), Manuscripts & Folklife Archives Oct 2016

Talley, Martha (Fa 998), Manuscripts & Folklife Archives

FA Finding Aids

Finding aid only for Folklife Archives Project 998. Project titled: “Quilts and Quilting in the Jonesville Community of Hart County, Kentucky.” Includes survey sheets with brief descriptions of quilting methods, terms, patterns beliefs, and superstitions in Hart County, Kentucky. Sheets include a brief description, informant’s name, terms, pattern, and a photo of the quilt.


Gamblin, Margaret, B. 1949 (Fa 997), Manuscripts & Folklife Archives Oct 2016

Gamblin, Margaret, B. 1949 (Fa 997), Manuscripts & Folklife Archives

FA Finding Aids

Finding aid only for Folklife Archives Project 997. Project titled: “Quilting.” Includes survey sheets with brief descriptions of quilting methods, terms, and patterns in McCracken County, Kentucky. Sheets include a brief description, informant’s name, terms, and a photo of the quilt.


Tichenor, Judy, B. 1951 (Fa 987), Manuscripts & Folklife Archives Oct 2016

Tichenor, Judy, B. 1951 (Fa 987), Manuscripts & Folklife Archives

FA Finding Aids

Finding aid only for Folklife Archives Project 987. Project titled: “Quilting in Ohio County.” Includes survey sheets with brief descriptions of quilting practices, superstitions, and patterns in Ohio County, Kentucky. Sheets include a brief description, questionnaire answers, informant’s name, terms, implements, and photos of quilts.


Indigo Dying With Amy Deveau's Chemistry Class, Kim Bernard Oct 2016

Indigo Dying With Amy Deveau's Chemistry Class, Kim Bernard

Artist in Residence: Kim Bernard

Description and images from one of Kim Bernard's class "drop-ins" during her fall semester 2016 time as the University of New England Artist in Residence. Kim met with Professor Amy Deveau's chemistry class to integrate the process of dying with indigo into their subjects.


Symposium Program Outline For Crosscurrents: Land, Labor, And The Port. Textile Society Of America’S 15th Biennial Symposium. Savannah, Ga, October 19-23, 2016. Oct 2016

Symposium Program Outline For Crosscurrents: Land, Labor, And The Port. Textile Society Of America’S 15th Biennial Symposium. Savannah, Ga, October 19-23, 2016.

Textile Society of America Symposium Proceedings

Conference program: times, locations, speakers, events.

Wednesday, October 19th 2016, through Sunday, October 23rd 2016.

10 pages


The Intercontinental Reflections Of An Eighteenth-Century Mexican Rebozo, Eleanor A. Laughlin Oct 2016

The Intercontinental Reflections Of An Eighteenth-Century Mexican Rebozo, Eleanor A. Laughlin

Textile Society of America Symposium Proceedings

The eighteenth-century Mexican rebozo (scarf) is an excellent example of a garment type that crossed not only ocean currents, but also boundaries of race and class. Initially, the rebozo was associated with indigenous culture in Mexico. Evidence suggests that the rebozo existed during the pre-Columbian period,1 but it has been most commonly remembered as an article of clothing used by the Spaniards to cover the exposed bodies of indigenous women in the church setting. Aspects of the scarf’s decorative elements, such as fringe and dying methods, are thought to have been inspired by Asian styles that arrived in ...


[Tsa Web Pages For] Symposium 2016 -- Crosscurrents: Land, Labor, And The Port Textile Society Of America’S 15th Biennial Symposium Oct 2016

[Tsa Web Pages For] Symposium 2016 -- Crosscurrents: Land, Labor, And The Port Textile Society Of America’S 15th Biennial Symposium

Textile Society of America Symposium Proceedings

The web pages for the 2016 Savannah Symposium (archived in pdf).

The 2016 Textile Society of America Symposium will take place in Savannah, Georgia on the campus of the Savannah College of Art and Design (SCAD) and at the Hyatt Regency Hotel. To maximize scholarly interchange, the Symposium will consist of multiple, concurrent sessions, plenary and keynote speakers, a poster session and curated exhibitions that will intersect with the scholarly program. In addition to the symposium sessions and exhibitions, there will be a series of dynamic pre- and post-conference workshops and study tours to local and regional art institutions and ...


The Emergence Of The Bird In Andean Paracas Art. C. 900 Bce - 200 Ce, Mary B. Brown Sep 2016

The Emergence Of The Bird In Andean Paracas Art. C. 900 Bce - 200 Ce, Mary B. Brown

All Dissertations, Theses, and Capstone Projects

In the first millennium BCE, an enigmatic cultural group now known as Paracas inhabited the remote desert coast of southern Peru. Following its disappearance, Paracas culture did not emerge in the historical record until 1927, when three burial centers were scientifically excavated on the arid Paracas peninsula that gave the culture its name. The burials contained over 400 mummy bundles that preserved the only physical remnants of this culture and its unique art forms. When unwrapped, mummy bundles of elite males revealed multiple layers of finely woven and elaborately embroidered textiles and painted ceramics, along with gold objects, feathers, and ...