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Full-Text Articles in Art and Design

Examination Of Two Decades In Used Clothing Trade: The Case Of The United States And Selected Developed Economies, Youngji Lee, Ling Zhang, Elena E. Karpova Dec 2016

Examination Of Two Decades In Used Clothing Trade: The Case Of The United States And Selected Developed Economies, Youngji Lee, Ling Zhang, Elena E. Karpova

Apparel, Events and Hospitality Management Publications

This research examined two decades of the U.S. used clothing exports to the world. All countries (209) were classified into four groups based on the level of economic development. Between 1996 and 2012, U.S. used clothing exports shifted away from low-income economies to high-income economies. For the first time, our research demonstrated that the majority of used clothing discarded by American consumers is exported to high-income economies instead of poorest nations of the world. Next, used clothing exports and imports by volume and value in seven high-income countries were analyzed. The high-income countries not only exported but also ...


Matching Sourcing Destination With Fashion Brands’ Business Model: Comparative Advantages Of Bangladesh And Vietnam Apparel Industries, Bertha Jacobs, Leslie H. Simpson, Sara O. Nelson, Elena E. Karpova Dec 2016

Matching Sourcing Destination With Fashion Brands’ Business Model: Comparative Advantages Of Bangladesh And Vietnam Apparel Industries, Bertha Jacobs, Leslie H. Simpson, Sara O. Nelson, Elena E. Karpova

Apparel, Events and Hospitality Management Publications

This study investigated the comparative advantages of the Bangladeshi and Vietnamese apparel industries using Global Value Chain (GVC) framework. In this study, the GVC framework was expanded to include social and environmental sustainability issues. Secondary data, for the 2012 - 2013 period, were collected and analyzed for each component of the apparel GVC. The findings indicated that while both countries have unique comparative advantages, Vietnam clearly emerged as a leader on many GVC components. Bangladesh’s comparative advantage lies in lower wages, producing high volume orders, and lean manufacturing. In spite of Vietnam’s higher labor costs, it has comparative advantages ...


French Women In Art: Reclaiming The Body Through Creation/Les Femmes Artistes Françaises : La Réclamation Du Corps À Travers La Création, Liatris Hethcoat Dec 2016

French Women In Art: Reclaiming The Body Through Creation/Les Femmes Artistes Françaises : La Réclamation Du Corps À Travers La Création, Liatris Hethcoat

Student Scholar Symposium Abstracts and Posters

The research I have conducted for my French Major Senior Thesis is a culmination of my passion for and studies of both French language and culture and the history and practice of Visual Arts. I have examined, across the history of art, the representation of women, and concluded that until the 20th century, these representations have been tools employed by the makers of history and those at the top of the patriarchal system, used to control women’s images and thus women themselves. I survey these representations, which are largely created by men—until the 20th century. I ...


Profiling And Segmentation Of International Tourists In India, Nripendra Singh, Kathleen A. Krentler, Sunaina Ahuja Nov 2016

Profiling And Segmentation Of International Tourists In India, Nripendra Singh, Kathleen A. Krentler, Sunaina Ahuja

Apparel, Events and Hospitality Management Publications

Understanding visitors and the factors that pull them to visit a destination is imperative for successful branding as visitor characteristics and salient attributes are used to differentiate and position. This study identifies important attributes and segments of international tourists visiting India. Factor and Cluster analyses were used to analyse the data. Factor analysis identified six underlying dimensions while Cluster analysis identified four segments of international tourists across four continents. Profiling of clusters was done through Chi Square analysis leading to identification of target segments. Suggestions for branding and marketing strategies are provided according to the factors and segments identified.


Gamblin, Margaret, B. 1949 (Fa 997), Manuscripts & Folklife Archives Oct 2016

Gamblin, Margaret, B. 1949 (Fa 997), Manuscripts & Folklife Archives

FA Finding Aids

Finding aid only for Folklife Archives Project 997. Project titled: “Quilting.” Includes survey sheets with brief descriptions of quilting methods, terms, and patterns in McCracken County, Kentucky. Sheets include a brief description, informant’s name, terms, and a photo of the quilt.


Talley, Martha (Fa 998), Manuscripts & Folklife Archives Oct 2016

Talley, Martha (Fa 998), Manuscripts & Folklife Archives

FA Finding Aids

Finding aid only for Folklife Archives Project 998. Project titled: “Quilts and Quilting in the Jonesville Community of Hart County, Kentucky.” Includes survey sheets with brief descriptions of quilting methods, terms, patterns beliefs, and superstitions in Hart County, Kentucky. Sheets include a brief description, informant’s name, terms, pattern, and a photo of the quilt.


Shidal, Denise (Fa 995), Manuscripts & Folklife Archives Oct 2016

Shidal, Denise (Fa 995), Manuscripts & Folklife Archives

FA Finding Aids

Finding aid only for Folklife Archives Project 995. Project titled: “Quilting.” Includes survey sheets with brief descriptions of quilting methods and patterns in Shelby County, Kentucky. Sheets include a brief description, informant’s name, terms, and a photo of the quilt.


Tichenor, Judy, B. 1951 (Fa 987), Manuscripts & Folklife Archives Oct 2016

Tichenor, Judy, B. 1951 (Fa 987), Manuscripts & Folklife Archives

FA Finding Aids

Finding aid only for Folklife Archives Project 987. Project titled: “Quilting in Ohio County.” Includes survey sheets with brief descriptions of quilting practices, superstitions, and patterns in Ohio County, Kentucky. Sheets include a brief description, questionnaire answers, informant’s name, terms, implements, and photos of quilts.


The Intercontinental Reflections Of An Eighteenth-Century Mexican Rebozo, Eleanor A. Laughlin Oct 2016

The Intercontinental Reflections Of An Eighteenth-Century Mexican Rebozo, Eleanor A. Laughlin

Textile Society of America Symposium Proceedings

The eighteenth-century Mexican rebozo (scarf) is an excellent example of a garment type that crossed not only ocean currents, but also boundaries of race and class. Initially, the rebozo was associated with indigenous culture in Mexico. Evidence suggests that the rebozo existed during the pre-Columbian period,1 but it has been most commonly remembered as an article of clothing used by the Spaniards to cover the exposed bodies of indigenous women in the church setting. Aspects of the scarf’s decorative elements, such as fringe and dying methods, are thought to have been inspired by Asian styles that arrived in ...


Symposium Program Outline For Crosscurrents: Land, Labor, And The Port. Textile Society Of America’S 15th Biennial Symposium. Savannah, Ga, October 19-23, 2016. Oct 2016

Symposium Program Outline For Crosscurrents: Land, Labor, And The Port. Textile Society Of America’S 15th Biennial Symposium. Savannah, Ga, October 19-23, 2016.

Textile Society of America Symposium Proceedings

Conference program: times, locations, speakers, events.

Wednesday, October 19th 2016, through Sunday, October 23rd 2016.

10 pages


[Tsa Web Pages For] Symposium 2016 -- Crosscurrents: Land, Labor, And The Port Textile Society Of America’S 15th Biennial Symposium Oct 2016

[Tsa Web Pages For] Symposium 2016 -- Crosscurrents: Land, Labor, And The Port Textile Society Of America’S 15th Biennial Symposium

Textile Society of America Symposium Proceedings

The web pages for the 2016 Savannah Symposium (archived in pdf).

The 2016 Textile Society of America Symposium will take place in Savannah, Georgia on the campus of the Savannah College of Art and Design (SCAD) and at the Hyatt Regency Hotel. To maximize scholarly interchange, the Symposium will consist of multiple, concurrent sessions, plenary and keynote speakers, a poster session and curated exhibitions that will intersect with the scholarly program. In addition to the symposium sessions and exhibitions, there will be a series of dynamic pre- and post-conference workshops and study tours to local and regional art institutions and ...


Druen, Sibyl Jean And Patricia Gilley (Fa 878), Manuscripts & Folklife Archives Sep 2016

Druen, Sibyl Jean And Patricia Gilley (Fa 878), Manuscripts & Folklife Archives

FA Finding Aids

Finding aid only for Folklife Archives Project 878. Paper titled: “Quilt Patterns: The Jonesville and Wisdom Communities.” Project includes survey sheets with brief descriptions of quilt patterns, process and terms of quilters in Hart and Metcalfe Counties, Kentucky. Sheets include a brief description, informant’s name, and a photo or drawing of the quilt and/or quilt pattern.


Law Library Blog (July 2016): Legal Beagle's Blog Archive, Roger Williams University School Of Law Jul 2016

Law Library Blog (July 2016): Legal Beagle's Blog Archive, Roger Williams University School Of Law

Law Library Newsletters/Blog

No abstract provided.


Evolving Patterns: Conflicting Perceptions Of Cultural Preservation And The State Of Batik’S Cultural Inheritance Among Women Artisans In Guizhou, China, Katherine B. Uram Jun 2016

Evolving Patterns: Conflicting Perceptions Of Cultural Preservation And The State Of Batik’S Cultural Inheritance Among Women Artisans In Guizhou, China, Katherine B. Uram

Lawrence University Honors Projects

My exploration features Miao batik-making in Guizhou Province and explores several sets of overlapping questions. The first set focuses on the status of the craft of Miao batik-making and the perceptions of its future. Is batik-making a dying art form? To what extent is Batik-making a thriving cultural practice today, or do Miao in China (and other ethnic groups involved in batik-making) perceive an inheritance crisis? My next focus is on the role of institutions and the tourism industry. If taught less and less in the domestic sphere (traditions passed from mother to daughter), what role do public domains such ...


Comparative Advantage Of The United States And South Korean Manmade Textile Industries, Eonyou Shin, Caitlyn Keenan, Elena E. Karpova Jun 2016

Comparative Advantage Of The United States And South Korean Manmade Textile Industries, Eonyou Shin, Caitlyn Keenan, Elena E. Karpova

Apparel, Events and Hospitality Management Publications

This study examined the comparative advantage of manmade textile (MMT) industries in the United States (US) and South Korea (SK). The Revealed Comparative Advantage (RCA) framework was used to assess the MMT industries’ performance in both countries from 2004 to 2013. With the recent ratification of the United States-South Korea Free Trade Agreement (KORUS FTA), it is important to understand the current state of these industries. Using UN Comtrade export data, the RCA index values were calculated and analyzed for 27 MMT commodities, three aggregate groups, and the whole industry. It was found that SK had a consistent comparative advantage ...


Akemi Nakano Cohn Interview, Allisan Tate Mar 2016

Akemi Nakano Cohn Interview, Allisan Tate

Asian American Art Oral History Project

Artist Bio:

Akemi Nakano Cohn studied traditional Japanese dyeing/printing techniques for ten years under the master Haru Izumi in Yokohama, Japan. She received an MFA in Fiber Arts from Cranbrook Academy of Art (Bloomfield, MI) and a BFA from Tama Art University, Tokyo, Japan. Cohn has taught at the School of the Art Institute of Chicago, the Int'l Surface Design Conference, Haystack, and others. She was visiting artist at the Museum of the Art Institute of Chicago, University of Nebraska, Zijdelings (Netherlands), and artist-in-residence at Anderson Ranch and Ragdale Foundation. She has been in many exhibits, including solo ...


Aram Han-Sifuentes Interview, Yanessa Rodriguez Feb 2016

Aram Han-Sifuentes Interview, Yanessa Rodriguez

Asian American Art Oral History Project

Artist Bio:
Aram Han Sifuentes learned how to sew when she was 6 years old from her seamstress mother. Han Sifuentes was born in Seoul, South Korea and immigrated to Modesto, California as a child. She mines from her family’s immigration experience to address issues of labor and explores identity as a first generation immigrant.

Han Sifuentes’s work has been shown in national and international exhibitions. Her work has been included in exhibitions at the Chung Young Yang Embroidery Museum in Seoul, South Korea; Wing Luke Museum of Asian Pacific American Experience in Seattle, WA; Center for Craft ...


The Godey Quilt: One Woman’S Dream Becomes A Reality, Sandra L. Staebell Jan 2016

The Godey Quilt: One Woman’S Dream Becomes A Reality, Sandra L. Staebell

DLSC Faculty and Staff Publications

The Godey Quilt is a 1930s appliqué quilt composed of fifteen fabric portraits of men and women clothed in fashionable mid-nineteenth century attire. The dream of Mildred Potter Lissauer (1897−1998) of Louisville, Kentucky, this textile is a largely original design that is not representative of the majority of American quilts made during the early 1930s. Notable for the beauty and quality of its workmanship, the quilt’s crafting was, in part, a response to the competitive spirit that reigned in quiltmaking at the time. Significantly, the survival of the materials that document its conception, design, and construction enhances its ...


Are Hospitality Graduates Making Too Many Compromises? What They Give Up May Lead To Turnover, Eric Adam Brown, Robert H. Bosselman, Nicholas J. Thomas Jan 2016

Are Hospitality Graduates Making Too Many Compromises? What They Give Up May Lead To Turnover, Eric Adam Brown, Robert H. Bosselman, Nicholas J. Thomas

Apparel, Events and Hospitality Management Publications

The purpose of this research was to examine if differences between actual experiences of hospitality graduates and the perceived importance they placed on career factors can lead to turnover intent. The researchers surveyed hospitality graduates from the last 10 years about what they find important in selecting a career and what they are experiencing, or have experienced, in their career. Findings indicate as hospitality graduates rate certain factors more important, or experience factors less in their career, the differences become larger and their turnover intentions rise.


Embroidery In The Circle Of The Last Romanovs, Wendy Salmond Jan 2016

Embroidery In The Circle Of The Last Romanovs, Wendy Salmond

Art Faculty Articles and Research

This article essay examines the liturgical embroideries associated with the Empress Alexandra Fedorovna and her sister Grand Duchess Elizaveta Fedorovna. It suggests that the sisters’ needlework for sacred purposes was invested with a significance not seen in elite Russian society since the late seventeenth century. At a time when the arts of Orthodoxy were undergoing a state-sponsored renaissance, who was better suited to lead the resurgence of liturgical embroidery than the wife and sister-in-law of the Emperor, the last in a long line of royal women seeking to assert their piety and their power through traditional women’s work? In ...


Sabba Syal Elahi Interview (2 Of 2), Derek Hamilton Jan 2016

Sabba Syal Elahi Interview (2 Of 2), Derek Hamilton

Asian American Art Oral History Project

Bio: Sabba Syal Elahi is an interdisciplinary artist, educator, and cultural worker and focuses her art practice in fibers and drawing/painting. She grew up in a traditional Pakistani household in the Midwest. Her art explores political violence, historical representation, memory, and it’s impact on the South Asian Diaspora and Muslim American communities. Recently, Sabba was a 2013-2014 Resident Artist in Chicago Artist Coalition’s Bolt Program and exhibited her work at Woman Made Gallery. For the past 6 years Sabba has provided college and career counseling and portfolio development with an emphasis on the visual arts for high ...


Sabba Syal Elahi Interview (1 Of 2), Simi Mathew Jan 2016

Sabba Syal Elahi Interview (1 Of 2), Simi Mathew

Asian American Art Oral History Project

Bio: Sabba Syal Elahi received her M.F.A. from the School of the Art Institute of Chicago, and her art has been featured nationally at ArtWallah, internationally in Spain and Pakistan, and in the Chicagoland area. Sabba’s artwork is rooted in her bicultural experience and explores issues of cultural and historical representation, identity, and gender through personal, family, and community narratives. From 2011-2009 Sabba curated the visual art for an annual Chicago event called Voices of Resistance, which showcased the work of Chicago and Midwest based South Asian artists. Sabba has served four years as Coordinator of College ...


Dyeing With Morinda Citrifolia: In Pursuit Of Sustainable Future, Sudha Dhingra Jan 2016

Dyeing With Morinda Citrifolia: In Pursuit Of Sustainable Future, Sudha Dhingra

Textile Society of America Symposium Proceedings

Green and sustainable practices are the future of fashion. It aims to nurture the environment through effective use of resources in order to minimize the cruel impact for both producer and customer. It employs techniques of environmental friendly ways of growing, extracting, producing and processing fabrics. Fashion industry as such involves highly unsustainable practices as there is always an urgent need to get faster and uniform results. It has a high carbon footprint as each stage of clothing lifecycle generates environmental and occupational hazards. Socially committed fashion takes into account the place of production, producers well-being and conditions under which ...


Kashmir Shawls: The Perfect Exemplar Of A Textile Shaping And Being Shaped, Joan Hart Jan 2016

Kashmir Shawls: The Perfect Exemplar Of A Textile Shaping And Being Shaped, Joan Hart

Textile Society of America Symposium Proceedings

The history of the Kashmir shawl and its stylistic progress and appropriation by other cultures reveals that an art form can be viewed as is (sui generis), and also in a context of social life that is not always what we would like to celebrate. And because the shawls have been made over centuries, this context has changed frequently.1 The Kashmir shawl is very special because it combines: a material that is extremely rare and luxurious which we now call cashmere or pashmina, a weave structure that is unique in its region and very complex, a symbolism of design ...


The Story And The Stitch., Alice Kettle Jan 2016

The Story And The Stitch., Alice Kettle

Textile Society of America Symposium Proceedings

This paper explores my work and the connection between stories and stitching. It seeks to find meaningfulness and purpose in these narratives and activities and see how they are a reflection of everyday encounters. It asks if there are mnemonic properties to stitching and stories that can offer ways to understand and transform actual experience and to represent the past by making it physical and continuous. Tim Ingold uses this textile vocabulary to present its close connection with story telling; “To tell a story then, is to relate, in narrative the occurrences of the past, retracing a path through the ...


Here And There, Now, Sandra Heffernan Jan 2016

Here And There, Now, Sandra Heffernan

Textile Society of America Symposium Proceedings

A textile installation shaped by traditional embroidery, geographical differences, technology and novel natural dye is the focus of this paper. ‘Through the globe’ [Através do globo] is the result of a six week artist in residency at Contextile 2016 in Guimarães, Portugal.1 It builds upon environmental pest invasive weed dye research, interprets ‘traditional’ embroidery illustrating the poetics of place.2 The essence of Guimarães embroidery provides the narrative along the fourteen metre length and is the physical embodiment of the antipodal link between and Wellington, New Zealand. The challenge offered by Contextile 2016 was to collaborate with Oficina embroiderers ...


Drawloom Velvet: Exploring A Centuries Old Tradition, Wendy Landry Jan 2016

Drawloom Velvet: Exploring A Centuries Old Tradition, Wendy Landry

Textile Society of America Symposium Proceedings

Since 1986, I have been pursuing my passionate interest in handwoven velvet, both practically and academically. By velvet, I mean extra-warp pile, rather than weft-woven types of pile, such as weft-looping or knotting. Simple, monochrome plain velvets have been woven since the early Coptic period, requiring only simple looms and two simple warp tensioning systems, one for the foundation cloth and another for the pile warp.1 ( On the basis of such a simple set-up, early velvet figuration could be created through the following colour effects using: (a) striped pile warp; (b) ikat/chiné (spaced dyed) pile warp; (c) painted ...


Drawing, Stitch, Translation, Archive, Janis Jefferies Jan 2016

Drawing, Stitch, Translation, Archive, Janis Jefferies

Textile Society of America Symposium Proceedings

The Constance Howard Resource and Research Centre in Textiles was founded in 2002. Inspirational textiles teacher, Constance Howard, established the Collection in 1980. Constance joined Goldsmiths as a teacher in 1945 and founded the acclaimed textile courses which closed in 2008. Internationally respected, she remained involved with the College until her death in 2000, when she donated her textiles collection to the College on the basis that it would be stored in perpetuity. . It is important to note that modern, historians have relied – often of necessity – on documentary or visual sources to research textile history. We have explored how tacit ...


Slipstitch: A Survey Of Contemporary Narrative-Based Stitch And Embroidery Practices In Australia, Belinda Von Mengersen Jan 2016

Slipstitch: A Survey Of Contemporary Narrative-Based Stitch And Embroidery Practices In Australia, Belinda Von Mengersen

Textile Society of America Symposium Proceedings

Slipstitch, an Australian exhibition of contemporary stitch artworks was discussed in a panel session titled, Allegory and Subversion: contemporary stitch narratives, cross-cultural influences and international perspectives. This presentation situated the exhibition as one example within a broader view of contemporary allegorical, speculative and provisional stitch practices emerging within Australia and Internationally. Slipstitch is an Ararat Regional Art Gallery and National Exhibitions Touring Support (NETS) Victoria touring exhibition (2015-2017), curated by Dr Belinda von Mengersen. Slipstitch presented an Australian perspective on the contemporary uptake of stitch and embroidery practice by a new generation of artists. Long overdue, it was the first ...


Batik, Ja, Batik: Wiener Werkstätte Batik From The Los Angeles County Museum Of Art And Cotsen Textile Traces Collections, Michaela Hansen Jan 2016

Batik, Ja, Batik: Wiener Werkstätte Batik From The Los Angeles County Museum Of Art And Cotsen Textile Traces Collections, Michaela Hansen

Textile Society of America Symposium Proceedings

In 1919, the Viennese cultural critic Adolf Loos addressed a newspaper column to the “ninety percent” of female artists who “call themselves that because they can batik.” Bemoaning shop windows filled with batik cloths and neckties, Loos stated: “To the modern human being…batik [is] an abomination.” Derisively likening the skill required of a batik artist to “drop[ing] a May bug into an inkwell and then let[ting] it crawl around on a prettily dyed, magnificent piece of…pongee silk,” Loos advised practitioners to seek a dry cleaner to “fix” their dye work by erasing it. “The danger is ...