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Full-Text Articles in Art and Design

Blooming Moth Dress, Della Reams, Hisham Dawoud, Larry D. Rushing Jan 2018

Blooming Moth Dress, Della Reams, Hisham Dawoud, Larry D. Rushing

International Textile and Apparel Association (ITAA) Annual Conference Proceedings

Original draped dress design using original digitally-printed fabric design.


Assembling Creativity, Krissi Riewe Jan 2018

Assembling Creativity, Krissi Riewe

International Textile and Apparel Association (ITAA) Annual Conference Proceedings

Much literature on fashion design today centers around sustainable, ethical making processes or advances in the use of digital technologies. As a graduate student, I want to address both through the use of playful, open-minded process and material exploration. With access to both traditional fashion design and new digital fabrication tools, I utilized both in the process of combining gifted, reclaimed, 3D printed, and found materials. The making process was intuitive, with the design process being informed and developed though open-minded interaction with materials and processes.


Bacterial Cellulose Yarns: Preserving Fiber Strength And Improving Performance, Dr. Jennifer Harmon Jan 2018

Bacterial Cellulose Yarns: Preserving Fiber Strength And Improving Performance, Dr. Jennifer Harmon

International Textile and Apparel Association (ITAA) Annual Conference Proceedings

Bacterial cellulose is a promising material, which has recently been gaining attention for it's potential use in apparel. This vegetable leather-like material has several promising and simultaneously limiting properties. In this research, we explored a preliminary formulation and tested the resulting bacterial cellulose yarns. Our results indicate the there is sufficient strength and extension for this material to undergo hand or low speed mechanical weaving.


Design For A Wasp-Loving Entomologist. Using Digital Printing And Creative Pattern Cutting To Create An Ensemble To Reflect One’S Research Interests, Ellen Mckinney, Fatma Baytar Jan 2018

Design For A Wasp-Loving Entomologist. Using Digital Printing And Creative Pattern Cutting To Create An Ensemble To Reflect One’S Research Interests, Ellen Mckinney, Fatma Baytar

International Textile and Apparel Association (ITAA) Annual Conference Proceedings

The purpose of this ensemble was to celebrate the beautiful home and industrious nature of Dolichovespula maculata, a type of wasp colloquially known as the baldfaced hornet. (Figure 1). The ensemble was designed for a university professor who studies this wasp to wear to an entomology conference. Entomology academics commonly enjoy wearing apparel and accessories made of materials from or referencing the insects they study to academic conferences (See social media hashtag #entofashion.). The digital printing and subtraction cutting techniques worked together to accomplish the goal of creating a special ensemble for an entomologist to better reflect her research interests ...


My Girl Friday, Lawren Cappelletti, Adriana C. Gorea Jan 2018

My Girl Friday, Lawren Cappelletti, Adriana C. Gorea

International Textile and Apparel Association (ITAA) Annual Conference Proceedings

"My Girl Friday" is an exploration of 1940s/WWII inspired street wear that draws parallels between the tailoring and craftsmanship found in vintage looks, and the relaxed clothing of today.


Coming To Our Senses: The 21st Century Tactile, Kelly Cobb, Belinda Orzada Phd Jan 2018

Coming To Our Senses: The 21st Century Tactile, Kelly Cobb, Belinda Orzada Phd

International Textile and Apparel Association (ITAA) Annual Conference Proceedings

As a culture, we are experiencing a cultural shift towards the textile and its cultural expression, marked by renewed interest in material processes and an urgency to understand what products are made of. Companies are reintroducing arts and crafts and the recycling of scraps to not let anything go to waste (Edelkoort, 2016). Brands are increasingly turning to novel and innovative textiles to set them apart (Johnson, 2015). The loss of touch is a grand challenge (grand phenomena) requiring action and knowledge sharing.


“I Knew The Mechanics Of Hip”: Fashioning Bodies In The Works Of Joni Mitchell, 1968 - 1979, Denise Nicole Green, Susan B. Kaiser, Kyra Streck, Kelsie Nicole Doty Jan 2018

“I Knew The Mechanics Of Hip”: Fashioning Bodies In The Works Of Joni Mitchell, 1968 - 1979, Denise Nicole Green, Susan B. Kaiser, Kyra Streck, Kelsie Nicole Doty

International Textile and Apparel Association (ITAA) Annual Conference Proceedings

Since the late 1960s, Joni Mitchell has been best known for her remarkable music: her voice, compelling lyrics, and unusual guitar tunings, all of which have conveyed sentiments of her generation and have remained relevant to later generations. Although her lyrics and album covers are replete with references to fashion, textiles, dress, and appearance, they have not been critically analyzed in relation to her status as a cultural icon. The fashion industry is clearly aware of this status, as evidenced, for example, by her inclusion in a 2015 Yves St. Laurent campaign. In our study, we ask: (1) What does ...


Warmsie Onesie – Thermal Protection For Peruvian Infants, Belinda Orzada, Patience Ankomah, Sheiron Crawford, Chacha Hudson, Leah Jackson, Stephanie Joseph, Kelsey Kosinski, Ashley Paintsil, Cheyenne Smith, Natalie Dipopolo Jan 2018

Warmsie Onesie – Thermal Protection For Peruvian Infants, Belinda Orzada, Patience Ankomah, Sheiron Crawford, Chacha Hudson, Leah Jackson, Stephanie Joseph, Kelsey Kosinski, Ashley Paintsil, Cheyenne Smith, Natalie Dipopolo

International Textile and Apparel Association (ITAA) Annual Conference Proceedings

Infant mortality rates due to hypothermia are extremely high in the Q’eros nation of Peru. The purpose of this design research was to develop a garment/wrapping system that will help the infants maintain adequate body temperature to prevent cold related illness/death and at the same time be compatible with Q’eros cultural traditions.


Commercialization Of Adaptive Clothing: Toward A Movement Of Inclusive Design, Kelsey Kosinski, Belinda Orzada, Hye-Shin Kim Jan 2018

Commercialization Of Adaptive Clothing: Toward A Movement Of Inclusive Design, Kelsey Kosinski, Belinda Orzada, Hye-Shin Kim

International Textile and Apparel Association (ITAA) Annual Conference Proceedings

An analysis of the evolution of adaptive clothing was conducted through a review of relevant literature published from 1963 to 2017. The goal should be to create ready-to-wear clothing with adaptive features, thus helping individuals with disabilities to address their functional, expressive and aesthetic needs, while also eliminating the stigma of adaptive clothing. In order to reduce the stigma of adaptive clothing, while also enhancing the quality of life for people with disabilities, a change in the fashion industry must happen. Future designers need to be prepared for a market that encompasses all body types, not just the “normal” body ...


Seamless Knitted Sports Bra Design: A Responsive System Design Exploration, Adriana C. Gorea, Fatma Baytar, Eulanda Sanders Jan 2018

Seamless Knitted Sports Bra Design: A Responsive System Design Exploration, Adriana C. Gorea, Fatma Baytar, Eulanda Sanders

International Textile and Apparel Association (ITAA) Annual Conference Proceedings

The transition of sports bras’ uses, from an active lifestyle to resting activities, requires adaptable comfort properties of the design (Quinn, 2010). In the current age of technological revolution, the sports bra industry is still not offering an adaptable and responsive sports bra, which supports the body during high impact sports while feeling soft and comfortable during rest (Hansman, 2017). Moreover, the current commercial sports bras are made using all synthetic yarns and using garment dyeing processes that are not ecological sustainable (McCann, 2005).Thus, the two-fold purpose of this study was to: (a) analyze the materials and processes used ...


Using Thrifted Garments As A Learning Tool In An Introductory Textiles Course, Charity Armstead Jan 2018

Using Thrifted Garments As A Learning Tool In An Introductory Textiles Course, Charity Armstead

International Textile and Apparel Association (ITAA) Annual Conference Proceedings

Using thrifted garments for analysis in an introductory textiles course was designed to increase transfer of learning. Prior to the introduction of the assignment, students had difficulty transferring the information into contexts beyond lab samples provided in class. This assignment was created so students could apply course content to garments that they selected. Students were asked to purchase garments to cut up and analyze throughout the semester. At the end of the semester, each student assembled the results into a final report. Adding analysis of thrifted garments to the course gave students a real-life application for textbook concepts. The students ...


Interconnect: A Double Collaboration, Brianna Plummer, Lynn M. Boorady, Carol Townsend Jan 2018

Interconnect: A Double Collaboration, Brianna Plummer, Lynn M. Boorady, Carol Townsend

International Textile and Apparel Association (ITAA) Annual Conference Proceedings

Departments of Biology, Art & Design and Fashion collaborated to create a line of garments with surface design prints inspired by nature. Freshmen art students were given access to a herbarium to view over 16,000 specimens and used this as inspiration to develop distinct motifs of symmetrical and asymmetrical designs. The top 13 images were chosen and digitally scanned. The scanned designs were given to surface design students in the Fashion department to develop industry ready repeat tiles and engineered yardage. Minimal restrictions on manipulation of these designs was imposed. Faculty contracted a professional fabric printing surface to create yardage ...


A Study On The Cultural Role Of Walking Court Ladies’ Hat In Queen Jeongsun’S Wedding Parade Illustration Of Oegyujanggak Uigwe, Jeong Choi Jan 2018

A Study On The Cultural Role Of Walking Court Ladies’ Hat In Queen Jeongsun’S Wedding Parade Illustration Of Oegyujanggak Uigwe, Jeong Choi

International Textile and Apparel Association (ITAA) Annual Conference Proceedings

This study considers the cultural role of walking court ladies’ hats in a wedding parade illustration of Oegyujanggak Uigwe that focuses on the parade of Queen Jeongsun. Walking court ladies’ hat and hairstyle were changed immediately into a loose wig, jokduri-shaped hat, and chignon when the costume policy was legislated by the king. Jokduri, small padding hat, was recommended by the king’s command in 1756 for the first time instead of a massive wig, however discussions continued from 1748-49. Loose wigs disappeared in wedding parade illustration of Queen Jeongsun of 1759, 4 walking court ladies wore angled black ...


Hanfu Rising: The Simulation And Evaluation Of Chinese Cultural Garments: A Multi-Dimensional Comparison Study, Bai Li, Kelly Cobb, Huantian Cao, Belinda Orzada, Ping Xiao Jan 2018

Hanfu Rising: The Simulation And Evaluation Of Chinese Cultural Garments: A Multi-Dimensional Comparison Study, Bai Li, Kelly Cobb, Huantian Cao, Belinda Orzada, Ping Xiao

International Textile and Apparel Association (ITAA) Annual Conference Proceedings

The process of apparel sampling produces a large amount of waste. Virtual prototyping is seen as beneficial in reducing impact of manufacturing waste, few studies have verified the fit, appearance and fabrication characteristics of virtually simulated multi-layered garments. The current literature into virtual prototyping typically focuses only on western garments (Morfin, 2017). The researchers determined that simulation and evaluation of cultural non-western garments would build on and contribute to existing research in this area. This study was designed to analyze the similarity of fit and appearance between physically constructed multi-layered cultural garments and those virtually constructed. Researchers created two Chinese ...


New Configurations In Fashion: Innovative Forms Meet Engineered Textile Printing, Eulanda A. Sanders, Ellen Mckinney, Fatma Baytar Jan 2018

New Configurations In Fashion: Innovative Forms Meet Engineered Textile Printing, Eulanda A. Sanders, Ellen Mckinney, Fatma Baytar

International Textile and Apparel Association (ITAA) Annual Conference Proceedings

June 15 – 21, 2017 the New Configurations in Fashion: Innovative Forms Meet Engineered Textile Printing workshop was held at Iowa State University. The project was funded by a grant from the National Endowment for the Arts (NEA) and the Donna R. Danielson Professorship in Textiles and Clothing at Iowa State University. The goal of the workshop was to establish a physical space and time where participants can: (a) create innovative textile and fashion designs, (b) develop textile designs that follow the form and structure of the garments, and (c) utilize patternmaking techniques such as subtraction cutting, zero waste, three dimensional ...


“Implementing An Upcycled/Redesign Project In A Dress Theory Course”, April Elisha Stanley Jan 2018

“Implementing An Upcycled/Redesign Project In A Dress Theory Course”, April Elisha Stanley

International Textile and Apparel Association (ITAA) Annual Conference Proceedings

In an undergraduate dress theory course, the expectations were that a new project could address existing gaps: (a) students were interested in sewing but the program was merchandising-based only, (b) previously, dress meanings and motivations were not highly emphasized in the course in spite of their importance to understanding dress practices (Lennon, Johnson, & Rudd, 2017), and (c) past students demonstrated little to no knowledge about sustainability practices for garment design, particularly the textile waste problem in the industry where materials can be reused to construct new products (e.g., Hawley, 2008). A new project was implemented for the course to ...


Reinterpretation Of Hanbok, Sunhyung Cho Jan 2018

Reinterpretation Of Hanbok, Sunhyung Cho

International Textile and Apparel Association (ITAA) Annual Conference Proceedings

Modernization of traditional crafts happens when the past is reimagined in terms of what the present wants. In light of this, a hanbok, which is a traditional Korean costume piece, has also been reimagined for the present day. This design is intended to reinterpret hanbok using both Eastern and Western styles in the digitally printed fabric, patternmaking techniques, and silhouette. To create a custom digitally printed silk charmeuse fabric, the designer watercolor-painted a motif of birds and flowers, inspired by hwajo-do, a style of Korean folk painting and modified and patterned the motif using Adobe Photoshop, Designers intentionally combined these ...


Mycelium Afoot: Fashioning Sustainable Footwear, Wing Tang, Jillian Silvermant, Kelly Cobb, Huantian Cao Jan 2018

Mycelium Afoot: Fashioning Sustainable Footwear, Wing Tang, Jillian Silvermant, Kelly Cobb, Huantian Cao

International Textile and Apparel Association (ITAA) Annual Conference Proceedings

Concept: Mycelium, the root structure of mushrooms, has been used to make composite materials for applications including packaging, construction bricks, and shoe soles (Holt et al., 2012; Boyer, 2014; Jiang, Walczyk, McIntyre, & Chan, 2016). Grown on agricultural byproducts, mycelium acts as a natural binder, digesting and bonding to the surface of damp substrates as it grows (Jiang et al., 2016). Since all of the raw materials are natural, the mycelium composite is fully biodegradable (Holt et al., 2012). The purpose of this research was to develop and evaluate mushroom mycelium composites that have a potential application for shoe soles. To ...


It Gets Better With Age: Naturally-Dyed Hot Yoga Apparel, Denise Nicole Green Jan 2018

It Gets Better With Age: Naturally-Dyed Hot Yoga Apparel, Denise Nicole Green

International Textile and Apparel Association (ITAA) Annual Conference Proceedings

What if our active wear clothing improved with wear and with age? What if our bodies did the same? The impact of time, gravity, ultraviolet light, washing, and other forces are typically perceived as detrimental to our clothing and bodies, but this naturally-dyed yoga ensemble forces us to re-imagine the opportunities that frequent use, laundering, soiling, and consistent hot yoga practice may provide. With wear, human sweat, and washing the colors have become deeper and more robust. Rather than remaining static, this design actually gets better with age. "It Gets Better With Age" is an experiment in contact-dyeing plant matter ...


Unification Of Naasquuisaqs And Tl’Aakwakumlth, Denise Nicole Green Jan 2018

Unification Of Naasquuisaqs And Tl’Aakwakumlth, Denise Nicole Green

International Textile and Apparel Association (ITAA) Annual Conference Proceedings

Nuu-chah-nulth First Nations hail from the West coast of Vancouver Island and according to their traditional beliefs, have occupied these territories since time immemorial. Like other Northwest Coast indigenous peoples, Nuu-chah-nulth social organization is complex and reflected in design practice and iconography. Families own crests, which are iconographic images that represent histories, rights, and privileges. This design is as a bridal gown that was worn at a potlatch in June 2018 that marked the nuptials of two elders: Naasquuisaqs, a highly ranked Hupacasath woman, and Tl’aakwakumlth, a man from Kyuquot and Nuuchatlaht Nations who holds a Ha’wilth (chief ...


Effect Of Natural Dyeing Using Flos Sophora Japonica L. On The Uv Protection Of Cotton Fabric, Lkhagva Narantuya, Cheunsoon Ahn Jan 2018

Effect Of Natural Dyeing Using Flos Sophora Japonica L. On The Uv Protection Of Cotton Fabric, Lkhagva Narantuya, Cheunsoon Ahn

International Textile and Apparel Association (ITAA) Annual Conference Proceedings

The purpose of this research was to investigate the effect of UV protection function of cotton fabric dyed with Flos Sophora japonica L. The study also aimed to out whether the amount of rutin or quercetin fixed on the fiber through dyeing with Flos Sophora japonicaL. has effect on the degree of UV protection of the dyed cotton fabric. UV protection of dyed samples was measured using the Ultraviolet transmittance analyzer (UV-2000F, Labsphere) based on the American Society for Testing and Materials (ASTM) Test method 183. Four measurements were taken from each sample. High performance liquid chromatography-diode array detector ...


The Power Suit: Sustainable And Stylish, An Empowering Eco-Pioneer, Anupama Pasricha Jan 2018

The Power Suit: Sustainable And Stylish, An Empowering Eco-Pioneer, Anupama Pasricha

International Textile and Apparel Association (ITAA) Annual Conference Proceedings

The Power Suit is an eco-pioneer and a visual representation of empowerment and style. Made for diverse women who value individuality, the environment, and well-being, this suit is made from light blue Global Organic Standard (GOTS) certified 100% organic cotton chambray and underlined by white GOTS certified 100% organic cotton cambric. The underlining is used to support the fabric and to avoid the use of fusible interfacing, except for the facing and upper collar. The suit is lined with charmeuse made from 70% hemp and 30% silk. The key design elements--detachable ikat epaulets, hand-embroidered saddle stitch detail on welts, exposed ...


Tri-Axis, Kim Hahn Jan 2018

Tri-Axis, Kim Hahn

International Textile and Apparel Association (ITAA) Annual Conference Proceedings

The purpose of this design was to create digitally printed woven textile fabric strips by exploring triaxial weaving combined with sustainable design practice, upcycling.


World Wore Ii, Lawren Cappelletti, Adriana C. Gorea Jan 2018

World Wore Ii, Lawren Cappelletti, Adriana C. Gorea

International Textile and Apparel Association (ITAA) Annual Conference Proceedings

World Wore II is a combination of street wear pieces drawn from the parallels of 1940’s/WWII era seaming and colors, vintage craftsmanship, and modern-day women’s wear. By producing garments using inspiration from old to inspire new, technology becomes a successful tool of creating marketable new craft.


Indigo Chrysanthemum, Belinda Orzada Jan 2018

Indigo Chrysanthemum, Belinda Orzada

International Textile and Apparel Association (ITAA) Annual Conference Proceedings

This dress was a sustainable design challenge using geometric shapes to achieve a zero waste garment design. All garment “pattern” pieces originated as either squares or rectangles and were draped on the dressform to develop the final design. My aesthetic goals for this design combine cultural and environmental sustainability by exploring the use of shibori in an apparel application, combined with the use of natural dye (indigo) to color the silk.


Morning Glory, Hyunsoo Kim Jan 2018

Morning Glory, Hyunsoo Kim

International Textile and Apparel Association (ITAA) Annual Conference Proceedings

The design challenge for this three dimensional art wear, Morning Glory is to create a transformative garment inspired by biomimicry. Morning Glory is applying two levels of biomimicry through textile innovation: not only has it mimics form and shape, also imitates movement- bloom and wilt.


Denim Lace, Krissi Riewe Jan 2018

Denim Lace, Krissi Riewe

International Textile and Apparel Association (ITAA) Annual Conference Proceedings

This work explores the intersections of digital technologies with traditional methods of making garments. Incorporating digital technology, I can push beyond the boundaries of what my manual skills alone can do, and by using both traditional and innovative methods I can develop processes and methods specific to my work. Here, denim is transformed through both patternwork and the laser cutter in a harmonious process.


Pastoral Dreams And Quirky Goats: An Analysis Of Selling Strategies Of Fiber Farmers On Etsy, Casey R. Stannard Jan 2018

Pastoral Dreams And Quirky Goats: An Analysis Of Selling Strategies Of Fiber Farmers On Etsy, Casey R. Stannard

International Textile and Apparel Association (ITAA) Annual Conference Proceedings

Small scale fiber farming is growing as a hobby and economic activity in the United States. Small fiber farms often focus on rare or heritage breed fibers. Fiber farmers have also adopted various online platforms to sell their goods, such as Etsy. The purpose of this research was to examine the selling strategies of farmers selling fiber goods on Etsy and explore how fiber farmers characterize their farms, animals, and lifestyles. The results were also examined using the concept of nostalgia and the principles of Slow Fashion. To investigate the purpose, data were gathered from Etsy. A total of 47 ...


Teaching The Next Generation Of Technical Designers About Cotton Performance Technologies Through A Problem-Based Learning Project, Kristen D. Morris Jan 2018

Teaching The Next Generation Of Technical Designers About Cotton Performance Technologies Through A Problem-Based Learning Project, Kristen D. Morris

International Textile and Apparel Association (ITAA) Annual Conference Proceedings

The purpose of this project was to increase students' awareness of advancements by Cotton, Inc. to enhance the functional properties of cotton. In teams of two, students in a technical design course worked on a semester-long project that involved developing an innovative performance apparel ensemble for an underserved market using technologically enhanced cotton fabrics. Students created technical packages for each garment and submitted a comprehensive report documenting the entire design process and outcomes. Fabric and support was provided by Cotton, Inc.. The class was framed by a Problem-Based Learning (PBL) approach in which the students learned about cotton through the ...


A Study On Apparel Design For Chiropractic Training, Yeon Ah Jang, Kyung Hee Hong, Jung Soon Lee, Yoon Mi Choi, Hanna Kim Jan 2018

A Study On Apparel Design For Chiropractic Training, Yeon Ah Jang, Kyung Hee Hong, Jung Soon Lee, Yoon Mi Choi, Hanna Kim

International Textile and Apparel Association (ITAA) Annual Conference Proceedings

In severe cases of spinal misalignment due to wrong back posture during adolescence or focusing on work, modern people can have back pain. Such a symptom is commonly referred to as scoliosis and it already became one of the lifestyle diseases. Hence, the purpose of the present study was to develop a functional musculoskeletal correction wear that can help with maintaining a correct posture by relaxing tonic muscles and maximizing the tension of the relaxed muscle using the principle of sports taping.

Market research for design development was conducted at department stores and specialty road shops separately. Department stores were ...