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The Role Of Nostalgia In Retro Sewing, Charity S. Armstead, Ellen C. Mckinney Dec 2019

The Role Of Nostalgia In Retro Sewing, Charity S. Armstead, Ellen C. Mckinney

Apparel, Events and Hospitality Management Publications

This article explores the role of nostalgia as a motivation for retro sewing and the ways in which nostalgia shapes the practices of retro sewing. Retro sewers circumvent typical models of clothing consumption by opting out of the commercial fashion cycle, and instead creating clothing for everyday use that replicates or is inspired by styles from the past. As such, the practice of retro sewing is inextricably linked to one or more of the many forms of nostalgia. Previous studies on consumers and nostalgia have not considered the full breadth of how consumers interact with nostalgia. This article explains what ...


Why Do They Sew? Women’S Motivations To Sew Clothing For Themselves, Addie Martindale, Ellen C. Mckinney Aug 2019

Why Do They Sew? Women’S Motivations To Sew Clothing For Themselves, Addie Martindale, Ellen C. Mckinney

Apparel, Events and Hospitality Management Publications

Garment sewing is undergoing a resurgence in participation, with a growing number of women choosing to sew their clothing instead of buying readily available fast fashion. The purpose of this qualitative study was to understand the current motivations of an ethnically diverse sample of women who sew garments for themselves. The in-depth interview data from 15 interviews revealed personal fulfillment to be the overarching reason for participation. Personal fulfillment was achieved through main emergent themes of investment, control, and empowerment with 10 subthemes. Theoretical perspectives of prosumerism, craft and do-it-yourself consumption, and uses and gratification theory were applied to the ...


“I Should Probably Know More:” Reasons For And Roadblocks To The Use Of Historic University Collections In Teaching, Sara Marcketti, Jennifer F. Gordon Jun 2019

“I Should Probably Know More:” Reasons For And Roadblocks To The Use Of Historic University Collections In Teaching, Sara Marcketti, Jennifer F. Gordon

Apparel, Events and Hospitality Management Publications

Collections of dress and textiles can make subjects such as history come to life. However previous studies have shown that many collections are underutilized within university settings. The purpose of this paper is to examine contributing and detracting factors for use. In-depth, semi-structured interviews were conducted with curators and collection managers (n = 15) at twelve institutions. Respondents were then asked to recommend faculty members who did (n = 9) or did not use the collection (n = 6). Through data analysis, four major themes were related by the collection managers including: 1) ambiguous roles and unknown collections, 2) continual need for collection ...


Brew Culture, Kaiyue Yang Jan 2019

Brew Culture, Kaiyue Yang

Creative Components

No abstract provided.


Effect Of Fabric Deformation On Thermal Protective Performance Of Clothing In A Cylindrical Configuration, Yun Su, Rui Li, Jie Yang, Guowen Song, Chunhui Xiang, Jun Li Jan 2019

Effect Of Fabric Deformation On Thermal Protective Performance Of Clothing In A Cylindrical Configuration, Yun Su, Rui Li, Jie Yang, Guowen Song, Chunhui Xiang, Jun Li

Apparel, Events and Hospitality Management Publications

Firefighting protective clothing is designed to provide thermal protection for firefighters in fire extinguishing or rescuing operations. However, fabric deformation and stretching due to body movement and different postures could change the clothing's thermal protective performance. Current gaps in our knowledge with regard to fabric deformation often resulted in biased predictions of the thermal protective level that personal protective equipment (PPE) can provide, highlighting the need to improve our understanding in this field. In this study, we developed a device that can be connected to a cylindrical copper calorimeter to simulate fabric deformation due to body movement and different ...


Review Of Fashion, Technology And Health: Future Directions For The Apparel Industry, Rachel J. Eike, Sonia Bakhshian Oct 2018

Review Of Fashion, Technology And Health: Future Directions For The Apparel Industry, Rachel J. Eike, Sonia Bakhshian

Apparel, Events and Hospitality Management Publications

This review briefly analyzes fashion, technology, and health-related observations in industries to make suggestions for the future direction of growth for apparel and product development. This article highlights technology-embedded apparel and textile products currently presented in the market or made known via web promotion or conference exhibition. Many of these textile products are primarily associated with health care and fitness-related intentions - showing support and direction of health and technology for a future scope in fashion and apparel industries. The objective of this review was to identify challenges associated with ‘smart’ textile production, reference examples of technology integration in textile-based wearables ...


Development Of A Numerical Model To Predict Physiological Strain Of Firefighter In Fire Hazard, Yun Su, Jie Yang, Guowen Song, Rui Li, Chunhui Xiang, Jun Li Feb 2018

Development Of A Numerical Model To Predict Physiological Strain Of Firefighter In Fire Hazard, Yun Su, Jie Yang, Guowen Song, Rui Li, Chunhui Xiang, Jun Li

Apparel, Events and Hospitality Management Publications

This paper aims to develop a numerical model to predict heat stress of frefghter under low-level thermal radiation. The model integrated a modifed multi-layer clothing model with a human thermoregulation model. We took the coupled radiative and conductive heat transfer in the clothing, the size-dependent heat transfer in the air gaps, and the controlling active and controlled passive thermal regulation in human body into consideration. The predicted core temperature and mean skin temperature from the model showed a good agreement with the experimental results. Parametric study was conducted and the result demonstrated that the radiative intensity had a signifcant infuence ...


Unbalanced Contrast, Se Jung Oh, May Chae Jan 2018

Unbalanced Contrast, Se Jung Oh, May Chae

International Textile and Apparel Association (ITAA) Annual Conference Proceedings

The purpose of this project was to create a unique ready-to-wear style for professional working women. I desired to make a two-piece jacket and skirt reinventing the tartan kilt as a new key design element for women’s ready-to-wear that could be appealing to various professional working women regardless of age and race. Principles of design such as harmony, balance, proportion, emphasis, similarity, and contrast have been incorporated in an unconventional way. Various sizes of knife pleats were created using the tartan fabric and partially attached to the collar, sleeve, and bodies of the jacket, skirt, and pocket flap. This ...


World Wore Ii, Lawren Cappelletti, Adriana C. Gorea Jan 2018

World Wore Ii, Lawren Cappelletti, Adriana C. Gorea

International Textile and Apparel Association (ITAA) Annual Conference Proceedings

World Wore II is a combination of street wear pieces drawn from the parallels of 1940’s/WWII era seaming and colors, vintage craftsmanship, and modern-day women’s wear. By producing garments using inspiration from old to inspire new, technology becomes a successful tool of creating marketable new craft.


Skeptic, Helena Elston, Adriana C. Gorea Jan 2018

Skeptic, Helena Elston, Adriana C. Gorea

International Textile and Apparel Association (ITAA) Annual Conference Proceedings

Humans encounter existential questions of understanding whether we control our realities in this world or actually submit to illusions not of our making. It takes knowledge to understand even a little of one’s reality, but we hardly have a grip on it because time does not stand still. It is difficult for me to explain my own feelings and life experiences, because these are not tangible items, but I have learned to try and comprehend my realities through imagery and literature. Edgar Allan Poe’s “A Dream Within A Dream”, resonates with my own life by touching upon the ...


Assembling Creativity, Krissi Riewe Jan 2018

Assembling Creativity, Krissi Riewe

International Textile and Apparel Association (ITAA) Annual Conference Proceedings

Much literature on fashion design today centers around sustainable, ethical making processes or advances in the use of digital technologies. As a graduate student, I want to address both through the use of playful, open-minded process and material exploration. With access to both traditional fashion design and new digital fabrication tools, I utilized both in the process of combining gifted, reclaimed, 3D printed, and found materials. The making process was intuitive, with the design process being informed and developed though open-minded interaction with materials and processes.


Mycelium Afoot: Fashioning Sustainable Footwear, Wing Tang, Jillian Silvermant, Kelly Cobb, Huantian Cao Jan 2018

Mycelium Afoot: Fashioning Sustainable Footwear, Wing Tang, Jillian Silvermant, Kelly Cobb, Huantian Cao

International Textile and Apparel Association (ITAA) Annual Conference Proceedings

Concept: Mycelium, the root structure of mushrooms, has been used to make composite materials for applications including packaging, construction bricks, and shoe soles (Holt et al., 2012; Boyer, 2014; Jiang, Walczyk, McIntyre, & Chan, 2016). Grown on agricultural byproducts, mycelium acts as a natural binder, digesting and bonding to the surface of damp substrates as it grows (Jiang et al., 2016). Since all of the raw materials are natural, the mycelium composite is fully biodegradable (Holt et al., 2012). The purpose of this research was to develop and evaluate mushroom mycelium composites that have a potential application for shoe soles. To ...


Bonded, Kelsie Doty Jan 2018

Bonded, Kelsie Doty

International Textile and Apparel Association (ITAA) Annual Conference Proceedings

The purpose of Bonded was to explore using quilting methods to encapsulate 100% cotton secondhand garments between layers of silk organza. Bonded is part of a larger collection that explored my personal history and temporary existence; reflected in garments that are similarly ephemeral and personal. By exploring the use of natural and secondhand fibers through sampling this garment was able to achieve the objectives of creating a fully biodegradable object using only natural textiles, threads, and findings and encapsulating secondhand garments between layers of silk organza. This project provides knowledge about designing with biodegradable textiles and findings, in the hopes ...


My Girl Friday, Lawren Cappelletti, Adriana C. Gorea Jan 2018

My Girl Friday, Lawren Cappelletti, Adriana C. Gorea

International Textile and Apparel Association (ITAA) Annual Conference Proceedings

"My Girl Friday" is an exploration of 1940s/WWII inspired street wear that draws parallels between the tailoring and craftsmanship found in vintage looks, and the relaxed clothing of today.


Gratitude, Kelsie Doty Jan 2018

Gratitude, Kelsie Doty

International Textile and Apparel Association (ITAA) Annual Conference Proceedings

The purpose of Gratitude was to (1) explore the themes of agency and structure through silhouette and (2) repurpose discarded food waste as a natural textile dye. Gratitude is part of a larger collection that explored my personal history and temporary existence; reflected in garments that are similarly ephemeral and personal. This collection is comprised of fully biodegradable garments, using only natural textiles, thread, and findings. Each piece is displayed on a dress form created from a 3D body scan of myself and made from a biodegradable wood composite.


“Adapting Lindqvist’S Kinetic Garment Method For An Upcycled, Zero-Waste Childrenswear Romper”, April Elisha Stanley, Ellen C. Mckinney Jan 2018

“Adapting Lindqvist’S Kinetic Garment Method For An Upcycled, Zero-Waste Childrenswear Romper”, April Elisha Stanley, Ellen C. Mckinney

International Textile and Apparel Association (ITAA) Annual Conference Proceedings

A current upcycling trend is creating little girls' garments from menswear, exemplifying some tenets of sustainability. The purpose was to research methods for creating a sustainable little girls’ garment by upcycling menswear, which revealed a gap in the market for bifurcated, zero-waste designs. This design focused on specific elements of sustainability to increase useful lifespan: zero-waste and garment adjustability. Lindqvist’s (2013) experimental patternmaking technique, kinetic garment construction, was chosen for experimentation in conjunction with upcycled textiles to test adaptability for creating upcycled, zero-waste garments. Adapting Lindqvist’s (2013) method of kinetic garment construction by using the original technique along ...


Denim Lace, Krissi Riewe Jan 2018

Denim Lace, Krissi Riewe

International Textile and Apparel Association (ITAA) Annual Conference Proceedings

This work explores the intersections of digital technologies with traditional methods of making garments. Incorporating digital technology, I can push beyond the boundaries of what my manual skills alone can do, and by using both traditional and innovative methods I can develop processes and methods specific to my work. Here, denim is transformed through both patternwork and the laser cutter in a harmonious process.


“I Knew The Mechanics Of Hip”: Fashioning Bodies In The Works Of Joni Mitchell, 1968 - 1979, Denise Nicole Green, Susan B. Kaiser, Kyra Streck, Kelsie Nicole Doty Jan 2018

“I Knew The Mechanics Of Hip”: Fashioning Bodies In The Works Of Joni Mitchell, 1968 - 1979, Denise Nicole Green, Susan B. Kaiser, Kyra Streck, Kelsie Nicole Doty

International Textile and Apparel Association (ITAA) Annual Conference Proceedings

Since the late 1960s, Joni Mitchell has been best known for her remarkable music: her voice, compelling lyrics, and unusual guitar tunings, all of which have conveyed sentiments of her generation and have remained relevant to later generations. Although her lyrics and album covers are replete with references to fashion, textiles, dress, and appearance, they have not been critically analyzed in relation to her status as a cultural icon. The fashion industry is clearly aware of this status, as evidenced, for example, by her inclusion in a 2015 Yves St. Laurent campaign. In our study, we ask: (1) What does ...


Reinterpretation Of Hanbok, Sunhyung Cho Jan 2018

Reinterpretation Of Hanbok, Sunhyung Cho

International Textile and Apparel Association (ITAA) Annual Conference Proceedings

Modernization of traditional crafts happens when the past is reimagined in terms of what the present wants. In light of this, a hanbok, which is a traditional Korean costume piece, has also been reimagined for the present day. This design is intended to reinterpret hanbok using both Eastern and Western styles in the digitally printed fabric, patternmaking techniques, and silhouette. To create a custom digitally printed silk charmeuse fabric, the designer watercolor-painted a motif of birds and flowers, inspired by hwajo-do, a style of Korean folk painting and modified and patterned the motif using Adobe Photoshop, Designers intentionally combined these ...


Wakanda: A Visual Study In Structural And Surface Textile Design Via The Black Panther Movie, Eulanda A. Sanders Jan 2018

Wakanda: A Visual Study In Structural And Surface Textile Design Via The Black Panther Movie, Eulanda A. Sanders

International Textile and Apparel Association (ITAA) Annual Conference Proceedings

The phenomenon of The Black Panther, the movie, the first 2018 release of the Marvel Comics cinematic franchise, has grossed $631 million as of March 25th, 2018 (Rubin, 2018). The movie, branded as a cultural phenomenon, creating a sense of pride among Black people globally, is also a visual feast for textile artists and designers. Throughout the move, the characters are swathed in a variety of textiles created via various structural and surface textile design techniques. The costume design team, led by Ruth E. Carter, not only created a visual menagerie of apparel that harkened back to textile techniques ...


Design For A Wasp-Loving Entomologist. Using Digital Printing And Creative Pattern Cutting To Create An Ensemble To Reflect One’S Research Interests, Ellen Mckinney, Fatma Baytar Jan 2018

Design For A Wasp-Loving Entomologist. Using Digital Printing And Creative Pattern Cutting To Create An Ensemble To Reflect One’S Research Interests, Ellen Mckinney, Fatma Baytar

International Textile and Apparel Association (ITAA) Annual Conference Proceedings

The purpose of this ensemble was to celebrate the beautiful home and industrious nature of Dolichovespula maculata, a type of wasp colloquially known as the baldfaced hornet. (Figure 1). The ensemble was designed for a university professor who studies this wasp to wear to an entomology conference. Entomology academics commonly enjoy wearing apparel and accessories made of materials from or referencing the insects they study to academic conferences (See social media hashtag #entofashion.). The digital printing and subtraction cutting techniques worked together to accomplish the goal of creating a special ensemble for an entomologist to better reflect her research interests ...


Morning Glory, Hyunsoo Kim Jan 2018

Morning Glory, Hyunsoo Kim

International Textile and Apparel Association (ITAA) Annual Conference Proceedings

The design challenge for this three dimensional art wear, Morning Glory is to create a transformative garment inspired by biomimicry. Morning Glory is applying two levels of biomimicry through textile innovation: not only has it mimics form and shape, also imitates movement- bloom and wilt.


The Power Suit: Sustainable And Stylish, An Empowering Eco-Pioneer, Anupama Pasricha Jan 2018

The Power Suit: Sustainable And Stylish, An Empowering Eco-Pioneer, Anupama Pasricha

International Textile and Apparel Association (ITAA) Annual Conference Proceedings

The Power Suit is an eco-pioneer and a visual representation of empowerment and style. Made for diverse women who value individuality, the environment, and well-being, this suit is made from light blue Global Organic Standard (GOTS) certified 100% organic cotton chambray and underlined by white GOTS certified 100% organic cotton cambric. The underlining is used to support the fabric and to avoid the use of fusible interfacing, except for the facing and upper collar. The suit is lined with charmeuse made from 70% hemp and 30% silk. The key design elements--detachable ikat epaulets, hand-embroidered saddle stitch detail on welts, exposed ...


“Implementing An Upcycled/Redesign Project In A Dress Theory Course”, April Elisha Stanley Jan 2018

“Implementing An Upcycled/Redesign Project In A Dress Theory Course”, April Elisha Stanley

International Textile and Apparel Association (ITAA) Annual Conference Proceedings

In an undergraduate dress theory course, the expectations were that a new project could address existing gaps: (a) students were interested in sewing but the program was merchandising-based only, (b) previously, dress meanings and motivations were not highly emphasized in the course in spite of their importance to understanding dress practices (Lennon, Johnson, & Rudd, 2017), and (c) past students demonstrated little to no knowledge about sustainability practices for garment design, particularly the textile waste problem in the industry where materials can be reused to construct new products (e.g., Hawley, 2008). A new project was implemented for the course to ...


Coming To Our Senses: The 21st Century Tactile, Kelly Cobb, Belinda Orzada Phd Jan 2018

Coming To Our Senses: The 21st Century Tactile, Kelly Cobb, Belinda Orzada Phd

International Textile and Apparel Association (ITAA) Annual Conference Proceedings

As a culture, we are experiencing a cultural shift towards the textile and its cultural expression, marked by renewed interest in material processes and an urgency to understand what products are made of. Companies are reintroducing arts and crafts and the recycling of scraps to not let anything go to waste (Edelkoort, 2016). Brands are increasingly turning to novel and innovative textiles to set them apart (Johnson, 2015). The loss of touch is a grand challenge (grand phenomena) requiring action and knowledge sharing.


Tri-Axis, Kim Hahn Jan 2018

Tri-Axis, Kim Hahn

International Textile and Apparel Association (ITAA) Annual Conference Proceedings

The purpose of this design was to create digitally printed woven textile fabric strips by exploring triaxial weaving combined with sustainable design practice, upcycling.


Commercialization Of Adaptive Clothing: Toward A Movement Of Inclusive Design, Kelsey Kosinski, Belinda Orzada, Hye-Shin Kim Jan 2018

Commercialization Of Adaptive Clothing: Toward A Movement Of Inclusive Design, Kelsey Kosinski, Belinda Orzada, Hye-Shin Kim

International Textile and Apparel Association (ITAA) Annual Conference Proceedings

An analysis of the evolution of adaptive clothing was conducted through a review of relevant literature published from 1963 to 2017. The goal should be to create ready-to-wear clothing with adaptive features, thus helping individuals with disabilities to address their functional, expressive and aesthetic needs, while also eliminating the stigma of adaptive clothing. In order to reduce the stigma of adaptive clothing, while also enhancing the quality of life for people with disabilities, a change in the fashion industry must happen. Future designers need to be prepared for a market that encompasses all body types, not just the “normal” body ...


Plastic Soup, Addie Martindale Jan 2018

Plastic Soup, Addie Martindale

International Textile and Apparel Association (ITAA) Annual Conference Proceedings

The purpose of this design activism artwear was to create a visual representation of the environmental impact that plastic has on the ocean and aims to create a conversation about the seriousness of the issue. The cradle to cradle tenet of waste equals food (McDonough & Braungart, 2002) was used as a framework for the design and sourcing of materials. An exploration of free-form embroidery fabric collage was used to create the texture which is the design emphasis of the piece.


Engaging Students In The Grading Process, Semra -. Peksoz Jan 2018

Engaging Students In The Grading Process, Semra -. Peksoz

International Textile and Apparel Association (ITAA) Annual Conference Proceedings

Evaluating student work, using detailed rubrics and feedback are important teaching tools. However, percentage of students who have little patience in reading the feedback and learning from their mistakes is increasing. The method introduced here hopes to increase this percentage by actively engaging students in evaluating their own work based on the provided feedback and the rubric provided by the instructor.


Teaching The Next Generation Of Technical Designers About Cotton Performance Technologies Through A Problem-Based Learning Project, Kristen D. Morris Jan 2018

Teaching The Next Generation Of Technical Designers About Cotton Performance Technologies Through A Problem-Based Learning Project, Kristen D. Morris

International Textile and Apparel Association (ITAA) Annual Conference Proceedings

The purpose of this project was to increase students' awareness of advancements by Cotton, Inc. to enhance the functional properties of cotton. In teams of two, students in a technical design course worked on a semester-long project that involved developing an innovative performance apparel ensemble for an underserved market using technologically enhanced cotton fabrics. Students created technical packages for each garment and submitted a comprehensive report documenting the entire design process and outcomes. Fabric and support was provided by Cotton, Inc.. The class was framed by a Problem-Based Learning (PBL) approach in which the students learned about cotton through the ...