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Cultural History

International Textile and Apparel Association (ITAA) Annual Conference Proceedings

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Full-Text Articles in Arts and Humanities

“I Knew The Mechanics Of Hip”: Fashioning Bodies In The Works Of Joni Mitchell, 1968 - 1979, Denise Nicole Green, Susan B. Kaiser, Kyra Streck, Kelsie Nicole Doty Jan 2018

“I Knew The Mechanics Of Hip”: Fashioning Bodies In The Works Of Joni Mitchell, 1968 - 1979, Denise Nicole Green, Susan B. Kaiser, Kyra Streck, Kelsie Nicole Doty

International Textile and Apparel Association (ITAA) Annual Conference Proceedings

Since the late 1960s, Joni Mitchell has been best known for her remarkable music: her voice, compelling lyrics, and unusual guitar tunings, all of which have conveyed sentiments of her generation and have remained relevant to later generations. Although her lyrics and album covers are replete with references to fashion, textiles, dress, and appearance, they have not been critically analyzed in relation to her status as a cultural icon. The fashion industry is clearly aware of this status, as evidenced, for example, by her inclusion in a 2015 Yves St. Laurent campaign. In our study, we ask: (1) What does ...


Regional Cultural Differences In China Reflected On Men's Traditional Costumes, Leilei Jia, Yingjiao Xu, Hui'e Liang Jan 2018

Regional Cultural Differences In China Reflected On Men's Traditional Costumes, Leilei Jia, Yingjiao Xu, Hui'e Liang

International Textile and Apparel Association (ITAA) Annual Conference Proceedings

Notable differences were observed between the northern and southern regions of China in many different aspects, including lifestyles, personality, and culture. The main purpose of this study was to examine the Chinese North-South culture difference through a particular cultural item- man’s costume during the Modern Time in China. A convenience sample of 119 cross-shaped plane folk man’s costumes were used in this study. Using T-test analyses, the costumes were first compared on the structure and then a qualitative approach was taken to compare the color and pattern of the costumes between the North and the South. Significant differences ...


Amelia Gayle Gorgas: A Study Of The Woman And Her Dress, Chalise Ludlow, Virginia Wimberley Jan 2018

Amelia Gayle Gorgas: A Study Of The Woman And Her Dress, Chalise Ludlow, Virginia Wimberley

International Textile and Apparel Association (ITAA) Annual Conference Proceedings

This study was an attempt to reconstruct the original pleating of the deconstructed skirt which was part of a three piece day dress made of striped moire' taffeta. There are folds and tiny stitching lines from the waistband attachment but there is no clear indication of the depth of the original pleats. Five garments from a university collection were studied for waistline pleating. The mock-up has inverted box pleats on each side of center front, an inverted box pleat at side seam and set of four double-stacked pleats on either side of center back, giving the fullness that was popular ...


Will The Real Mariah Watkins Please Stand Up?: A Case Of Inaccuracy And Marginalization Of African American History And Appearance, Jennifer Farley Gordon, Eulanda A. Sanders Nov 2015

Will The Real Mariah Watkins Please Stand Up?: A Case Of Inaccuracy And Marginalization Of African American History And Appearance, Jennifer Farley Gordon, Eulanda A. Sanders

International Textile and Apparel Association (ITAA) Annual Conference Proceedings

Who was Mariah Watkins? What was her identity, and how did appearance inform that identity? Watkins was an African American woman. Although likely born a slave, she lived most of her free years as a woman of property and of skill, working as a documented nurse and midwife in Neosho, Missouri. This paper relies on archival records, photographic analysis, and material culture to explore Watkins as a case study in the challenges of documenting African American appearance during and after the antebellum period in the United States.


Style Through Silk And The Silent Silver Screen: "Irene Castle Corticelli Fashions", Denise Nicole Green, Jennifer Gray Nov 2015

Style Through Silk And The Silent Silver Screen: "Irene Castle Corticelli Fashions", Denise Nicole Green, Jennifer Gray

International Textile and Apparel Association (ITAA) Annual Conference Proceedings

This paper explores Irene Castle’s influence on dress reform and ready-to-wear design of the 19teens and early 1920s. We contend that Irene Castle shaped popular ideas about beauty and style, which contributed to dramatic change in women’s appearance in the 1920s. She was also the first film actress to design and promote a self-named fashion line, Irene Castle Corticelli Fashions, a practice that has become commonplace among today’s film celebrities.


Cotton Cloth Trades, Currency Reforms, And Inflations: Korean Experiences Of The Industrial Revolution From 1883 To 1897, Soon-Young Kim, Jung Ha-Brookshire Nov 2015

Cotton Cloth Trades, Currency Reforms, And Inflations: Korean Experiences Of The Industrial Revolution From 1883 To 1897, Soon-Young Kim, Jung Ha-Brookshire

International Textile and Apparel Association (ITAA) Annual Conference Proceedings

Koreans were exposed to machine-made cotton cloth through Japan, who was eager to find new marketplaces for her industrial products. Korea signed the Japan-Korea Treaty of 1876, agreeing to open trades. Through this treaty, Korean consumers experienced a flood of foreign industrial products, and these products fundamentally changed Korean society. This research traced the changing patterns of import cotton cloth prices, compared those with domestic cotton and silk cloth and rice [the most basic necessity food item], to understand how Koreans responded to the force of the Industrial Revolution. F


Town And Country Made: The Custom Dress Designs Of Ethel Wallace, 1930-1955, Michael Mamp Nov 2015

Town And Country Made: The Custom Dress Designs Of Ethel Wallace, 1930-1955, Michael Mamp

International Textile and Apparel Association (ITAA) Annual Conference Proceedings

Ethel Wallace (1885-1968) was a twentieth century artist who achieved great success with textiles and paintings. New information has emerged regarding Wallace's mid career in New Hope, PA via the acquisition of her personal papers.2 This cache of primary data allowed for the reconstruction of previously missing details regarding Wallace's mid life/career and has been mostly unavailable for research since her death in 1968.