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Kalamkari Or Chintz: An Anglo-Indian Hanging In The Metropolitan Museum Of Art, Melinda Watt 2016 University of Nebraska - Lincoln

Kalamkari Or Chintz: An Anglo-Indian Hanging In The Metropolitan Museum Of Art, Melinda Watt

Textile Society of America Symposium Proceedings

This paper will present ongoing research on a unique and important eighteenth-century painted cotton hanging now in The Metropolitan Museum of Art, as well as theories on the significance of the narrative depicted in the work. The hanging illustrates one or several military conflicts involving European and Indian combatants, presumably on the Indian subcontinent, and was very likely commissioned by someone connected with the British East India Company. (Fig. 1) This hanging was first exhibited when it was on loan to the museum for the exhibition Interwoven Globe: The Worldwide Textile Trade, 1500-1800 (on view from September 26, 2016 to ...


Arimatsu To Africa: Shibori Textiles Developed For African Trade In 1948–49, Yoshiko Iwamoto Wada 2016 World Shibori Network

Arimatsu To Africa: Shibori Textiles Developed For African Trade In 1948–49, Yoshiko Iwamoto Wada

Textile Society of America Symposium Proceedings

Shibori is a traditional Japanese textile term now widely used to classify a variety of patterns created on cloth by plucking, stitching, folding and then tightly knotting, binding, or clamping to compress and selectively resist dye penetration. The resulting patterns record the memory on cloth of the processes it sustained. Reading the resist marks on the cloth, shibori artisans can recreate the process or interpret various patterns. For the Textile Society of America’s Fifteenth Biennial Symposium in 2016 I organized a session with papers contributed by Françoise Cousin, Annie Ringuedé, and Ana Lisa Hedstrom and an exhibition titled “Arimatsu ...


Slipstitch: A Survey Of Contemporary Narrative-Based Stitch And Embroidery Practices In Australia, Belinda Von Mengersen 2016 Australian Catholic University

Slipstitch: A Survey Of Contemporary Narrative-Based Stitch And Embroidery Practices In Australia, Belinda Von Mengersen

Textile Society of America Symposium Proceedings

Slipstitch, an Australian exhibition of contemporary stitch artworks was discussed in a panel session titled, Allegory and Subversion: contemporary stitch narratives, cross-cultural influences and international perspectives. This presentation situated the exhibition as one example within a broader view of contemporary allegorical, speculative and provisional stitch practices emerging within Australia and Internationally. Slipstitch is an Ararat Regional Art Gallery and National Exhibitions Touring Support (NETS) Victoria touring exhibition (2015-2017), curated by Dr Belinda von Mengersen. Slipstitch presented an Australian perspective on the contemporary uptake of stitch and embroidery practice by a new generation of artists. Long overdue, it was the first ...


Kashmir Shawls: The Perfect Exemplar Of A Textile Shaping And Being Shaped, Joan Hart 2016 Mainly Textiles

Kashmir Shawls: The Perfect Exemplar Of A Textile Shaping And Being Shaped, Joan Hart

Textile Society of America Symposium Proceedings

The history of the Kashmir shawl and its stylistic progress and appropriation by other cultures reveals that an art form can be viewed as is (sui generis), and also in a context of social life that is not always what we would like to celebrate. And because the shawls have been made over centuries, this context has changed frequently.1 The Kashmir shawl is very special because it combines: a material that is extremely rare and luxurious which we now call cashmere or pashmina, a weave structure that is unique in its region and very complex, a symbolism of design ...


Sumptuary Synergy: British Imperialism Through The Tartan And Slave Trades, David Loranger, Eulanda A. Sanders 2016 University of Minnesota

Sumptuary Synergy: British Imperialism Through The Tartan And Slave Trades, David Loranger, Eulanda A. Sanders

Textile Society of America Symposium Proceedings

Sumptuary laws have been a useful tool for various national powers in regulating subjects and to promote class differentiation and business interests. The genesis of this study was one such law, entitled the South Carolina Negro Act of 1735, stipulating that slave garments could only be made of low-quality textiles. These fabrics were reflective of slaves living in chattel environments, thus also representing a slave’s status in society. This law forbade slaves from wearing “any sort of garment or apparel whatsoever, finer, other or of greater value than Negro cloth, duffels, coarse kerseys, osnabrigs, blue linen, check linen, or ...


Veiled In Ignorance And Clothed In Reason: Jimmie Durham’S 2014 Exhibition Traces And Shiny Evidence, Andrea Feeser 2016 Clemson University

Veiled In Ignorance And Clothed In Reason: Jimmie Durham’S 2014 Exhibition Traces And Shiny Evidence, Andrea Feeser

Textile Society of America Symposium Proceedings

In the 2014 London exhibition “Traces and Shiny Evidence,” Jimmie Durham showed on one floor brightly colored oil barrels, car parts, pcv pipes, and reproduction animal skeletons covered with or leaking ooze that shimmered with rainbow hues. On a floor one level up, Durham exhibited wall size drawing-prints he made by throwing stuffed animals coated with charcoal at very large pieces of paper. In the video that recorded Durham making the drawing-prints, the artist wears a workman’s vest labeled “Steiner. Maison de la Paix.” A video that is featured in the exhibition itself shows Durham in a business suit ...


Abstracts & Author Biographies For Textile Society Of America, 15th Biennial Symposium (2016): Crosscurrents: Land, Labor, And The Port, 2016 University of Nebraska - Lincoln

Abstracts & Author Biographies For Textile Society Of America, 15th Biennial Symposium (2016): Crosscurrents: Land, Labor, And The Port

Textile Society of America Symposium Proceedings

Dr. Heather J Abdelnur, Ph.D.

Reena Aggarwal

Patricia Alvarez

Cecilia Anderson

Emily Anderson

Lynne Anderson

Jaiya A Anka

Adebowale Biodun Areo and Margaret Olugbemisola Areo

Margaret Olugbemisola Areo and Adebowale Biodun Areo

David Arrellanes

Jenny Balfour-Paul

Suzi Ballenger

Ruth Barnes

Jody Benjamin

Carole F. Bennett

Julie Berman

Noga Bernstein

Medha Bhatt

Amy Bogansky

Elaine Bourque

Laurie A Brewer

Carrie Brezine

Donna Brown

Sarah S. Broomfield

Susan Brown

Heather R Buechler

Shelby A Burchett

Tara R Bursey

Bonnie S. Carter

Nynne J Christoffersen

Laura Cochrane

Lia Cook

Françoise Cousin

Jamie Credle

Maria Curtis

Pamela I Cyril-Egware

Sonja K Dahl

Mary ...


3d Scan Data For Caddo Ceramic Vessels From The George C. Davis Site (41ce19), Robert Z. Selden Jr. 2016 Center for Regional Heritage Research, Stephen F. Austin State University

3d Scan Data For Caddo Ceramic Vessels From The George C. Davis Site (41ce19), Robert Z. Selden Jr.

CRHR: Archaeology

On June 8, 2015, the intact and reconstructed vessels from the George C. Davis site (41CE19) were scanned (3D) in advance of an analysis of 3D geometric morphometrics. These data were collected using a Creaform GoSCAN50 running VXElements via the scanner direct control function in Geomagic Design X. All data associated with this project are available in Zenodo under a Creative Commons Attribution license, where they can be downloaded for use in additional projects. These data have the capacity to augment numerous research designs in the digital humanities and ceramic studies, as well as a wide range of comparative research ...


Museums, Disasters, And Resilience: The Presbytère's Living With Hurricanes: Katrina And Beyond Exhibit, Molly Hagan 2016 University of Denver

Museums, Disasters, And Resilience: The Presbytère's Living With Hurricanes: Katrina And Beyond Exhibit, Molly Hagan

Electronic Theses and Dissertations

This research project focuses on the entanglement of cultural heritage, museums, disasters, and resilience. Using The Presbytère museum's exhibit, Living with Hurricanes: Katrina and Beyond as a case study, I critically examined who is represented in the exhibit and how, what roles museum professionals and New Orleans community members held in the exhibit construction, and visitors' insight on the exhibit content. I argue that the promotion of New Orleans' culture and recovery post-Katrina throughout the exhibit has promoted the overall image of New Orleans and her residents as resilient. Framed by a variety of academic fields, this research contributes ...


Indigenous Curation At The Denver Museum Of Nature And Science, Julia Marie Strunk 2016 University of Denver

Indigenous Curation At The Denver Museum Of Nature And Science, Julia Marie Strunk

Electronic Theses and Dissertations

This thesis explores the questions of how and why indigenous curation is incorporated into collections care and management for American Indian sacred, ceremonial, and religious items at the Denver Museum of Nature and Science (DMNS) through the examination of staff discourse. This thesis also discusses the importance of incorporating non-Western ontologies and epistemologies into classically Western science and natural history museums, and how this helps reconcile differing collections care and management practices. Through the presentation and examination of data and literature, I argue that it is important to include indigenous curation in museums because it aids in cultural revitalization and ...


Relics Of Battle: War, Memory, And New Museum Theory In Military Museums, Megan McCoy 2016 University of Denver

Relics Of Battle: War, Memory, And New Museum Theory In Military Museums, Megan Mccoy

Electronic Theses and Dissertations

The anthropology of museums, or museum ethnography, is a useful tool for critically analyzing the representational strategies of museums and their collections. This thesis focuses on the anthropological discussion of military museums and analysis of the material culture of conflict, and specifically on military museums in the United States and in Europe. Using a comparative approach, I look at how "new museology" and "new museum theory" is or is not being implanted in respective military history museum exhibitions, and discuss how personal and collective memory play a role in the construction of the military museum. I also consider how visiting ...


Interpreting The Intangible: Challenges To The Display Of Dance Objects In Museums, Kathryn Louise Brundige Grossman 2016 University of Denver

Interpreting The Intangible: Challenges To The Display Of Dance Objects In Museums, Kathryn Louise Brundige Grossman

Electronic Theses and Dissertations

This thesis analyzes Indigenous and non-Western dance objects in museums, examining the role of theory from material culture studies, critical museology and museum education on approaches to their interpretation and display. To explore this topic, I conducted a comparative analysis of Indigenous and non-Western dance object displays at four museums - Denver Art Museum, Denver Museum of Nature and Science, the Thomas Gilcrease Institute of American History and Art in Tulsa, Oklahoma and the Sam Noble Museum of Natural History in Norman, Oklahoma - investigating the use of Native voice, reflexive analysis and multisensory elements in the exhibits' organization, narrative and representational ...


The Changing Role Of Chaguar Textiles In The Lives Of The Wichí, An Indigenous People Of Argentina, Rachel Green 2016 University of Nebraska - Lincoln

The Changing Role Of Chaguar Textiles In The Lives Of The Wichí, An Indigenous People Of Argentina, Rachel Green

Textile Society of America Symposium Proceedings

Beating, spinning, and sewing fiber, a woman works to perpetuate her culture a thread and stitch at a time. While her hands work expertly and she talks casually, Carolina is crocheting a hat from a fiber called chaguar to be worn under a motorcycle helmet. She learned to crochet five years ago from a nonindigenous woman whose house she was paid to clean. Because crocheting is not a traditional technique, she only does it to sell to the local townspeople, preferring the techniques from her Wichí heritage. “Wichí” means simply “the people” in her original language. Their culture is centered ...


Mexican Ikat And Transatlantic Trade, Alejandro B. de Avila 2016 University of Nebraska - Lincoln

Mexican Ikat And Transatlantic Trade, Alejandro B. De Avila

Textile Society of America Symposium Proceedings

The earliest text known so far in the Americas was engraved on a potsherd found in Chiapa de Corzo in southern Mexico that has been dated to around 300 years before our era. The script appears to represent a language in the Mixe-Zoquean family (which developed historically along the Isthmus of Tehuantepec), and it has been proposed that the inscription on the clay reads as follows: “The pleated cloth got dyed. The thing that is made of pleated cloth has been cut.”1 If this interpretation holds true, the text must refer to a textile that was patterned by means ...


Bead And Beadwork Traditions: A Study Of Trade And Cultural Exchanges Across The Coast Of Gujarat, East Africa And The Red Sea, Medha Bhatt 2016 University of Nebraska - Lincoln

Bead And Beadwork Traditions: A Study Of Trade And Cultural Exchanges Across The Coast Of Gujarat, East Africa And The Red Sea, Medha Bhatt

Textile Society of America Symposium Proceedings

Indian cotton textiles were the key commodity that powered the Indian Ocean trade exchanges. Gujarat played a significant role not only in the manufacture of cotton textiles but also carnelian beads that was used for commercial trade exchanges in the markets of East Africa, the Red Sea and the Persian Gulf. While these two commodities of trade have been studied separately in detail, less well examined is the interaction between the two and the emergence of glass beads in the commercial exchanges of the trading communities of Gujarat. The bonding of the beads to the fabric led to a sophisticated ...


Cutting Edge Technology: Knitting In The Early Modern Era, Jane Malcolm-Davies Dr. 2016 University of Nebraska - Lincoln

Cutting Edge Technology: Knitting In The Early Modern Era, Jane Malcolm-Davies Dr.

Textile Society of America Symposium Proceedings

New scientific evidence of trade in raw materials and finished goods for the knitted textile trade is emerging from a study of more than 100 extant knitted caps from the 16th century. These long-overlooked archaeological data are being re-excavated from museum archives for analysis in innovative ways. The caps are recorded in European collections as having been shipwrecked, deliberately concealed, preserved in peat bogs, or discarded as beyond use. Many were unearthed during construction work in cities, during building renovations or discovered on the seabed in far-flung locations across Europe – as far north as Norway and as far south as ...


Drawloom Velvet: Exploring A Centuries Old Tradition, Wendy Landry 2016 University of Nebraska - Lincoln

Drawloom Velvet: Exploring A Centuries Old Tradition, Wendy Landry

Textile Society of America Symposium Proceedings

Since 1986, I have been pursuing my passionate interest in handwoven velvet, both practically and academically. By velvet, I mean extra-warp pile, rather than weft-woven types of pile, such as weft-looping or knotting. Simple, monochrome plain velvets have been woven since the early Coptic period, requiring only simple looms and two simple warp tensioning systems, one for the foundation cloth and another for the pile warp.1 ( On the basis of such a simple set-up, early velvet figuration could be created through the following colour effects using: (a) striped pile warp; (b) ikat/chiné (spaced dyed) pile warp; (c) painted ...


Aesthetics, Economics And The Enchantment Of Cloth, Janis Jefferies, Barbara Layne 2016 University of Nebraska - Lincoln

Aesthetics, Economics And The Enchantment Of Cloth, Janis Jefferies, Barbara Layne

Textile Society of America Symposium Proceedings

In a changing world everyone crafts, designs and engages in making: each individual person and each collective subject, from communities to cities and regions, can define and enhance a life project. We are witnessing an unprecedented wave of social innovations, sometimes using technology and sometimes not. As these changes unfold, an expansive open set of process and practices in which new solutions are suggested and new meanings are created. Most revolutions are about energetic movement and upheavals; even if ideas take a while to become ideologies, we don’t think of them as slow events. But the phrase also makes ...


Here And There, Now, Sandra Heffernan 2016 Massey University

Here And There, Now, Sandra Heffernan

Textile Society of America Symposium Proceedings

A textile installation shaped by traditional embroidery, geographical differences, technology and novel natural dye is the focus of this paper. ‘Through the globe’ [Através do globo] is the result of a six week artist in residency at Contextile 2016 in Guimarães, Portugal.1 It builds upon environmental pest invasive weed dye research, interprets ‘traditional’ embroidery illustrating the poetics of place.2 The essence of Guimarães embroidery provides the narrative along the fourteen metre length and is the physical embodiment of the antipodal link between and Wellington, New Zealand. The challenge offered by Contextile 2016 was to collaborate with Oficina embroiderers ...


Some National Goods In 1871: The Rebozo, Marta Turok 2016 University of Nebraska - Lincoln

Some National Goods In 1871: The Rebozo, Marta Turok

Textile Society of America Symposium Proceedings

The history of rebozos and jaspe (ikat) in Mexico still presents many enigmas and fertile field for research. Public and private collections in Mexican and foreign museums preserve a variety of rebozos from the mid-18th through the 20th centuries. However, it has been complicated to correlate these extant pieces with exact places of production and dates. Other sources such as written accounts and images focus mostly on their social uses, sometimes places of production or sale are merely mentioned yet techniques and designs are the information least dealt with. Virginia Davis mentions this problem while analyzing the Frederick Church collection ...


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